No, it proves they solved the complicated problem to keep the health and softy morons happy. I'm happy with fuses. Fuses prevent overloads and stop fires, I don't need anything else.
No, it proves they solved the complicated problem to keep the health and softy morons happy. I'm happy with fuses. Fuses prevent overloads and stop fires, I don't need anything else.
Left wingers don't have brains, but they do have a disease whereby they see everyone else as wrong.
Or L2 to neutral. Or L1 to neutral.
We have single phase in the UK, nice and simple, connect to live and neutral and you get power.
What a lot of ingenuity for something that serves no purpose other than to piss people off when it trips. Try a fuse. They work wonderfully. Draw too much current and they break. Anything else and they let it keep running.
Doesn't it get complicated when currents go through inductors and capacitors in the loads?
No, I just can't be bothered calculating how to do it, as it's not something I'd ever do in my own home. My house is simple - a 100A live wire with a neutral armour shielding comes underground to the meter box. The live goes through a 100A fuse to the meter, the neutral is split into two, one is "neutral" to the meter, one is "earth" and goes past it. I then have live, neutral, and earth all going to the consumer unit (fusebox), where neutral and earth are basically the same thing. The neutral goes to every outlet. The earth goes to every outlet. The live goes through a number of fuses before going to a number of outlets each. The only way anything ever "trips" is if I draw too much current for the wiring - and the only time that ever happened in 17 years is a faulty bulb drew much more than the 5A allowed though the lighting circuit, and the fuse blew, switching off the lights only. I replaced the bulb and the fuse, no problem.
Everything in the UK runs on 240V. We don't need extra wires around the house, we just have live, neutral, and earth. The cables are thinner and cheaper, and of course there are lees of them. Why would you need two different voltages that are only a factor of two different? I could understand it if you had a 24 volt supply for electronics to save on big transformers etc within the devices, but why just halve it?
The two biggest issues is the need for a 2 pole breaker for this and the fact that they need to be grouped in the same raceway or cable. If he can meet those 2 requirements this is probably going to be legal. One place I would start looking in old work would be for a multiwire circuit, usually serving loads at the far end of the house like a couple of bedrooms. These typically split out in a ceiling box in one of them. If you can hit that with a 3 wire cable or even commandeer a
2 wire cable that you don't need for 120v you might be good to go.
You would not be creating an absurd inductive loop or a breaker that will not open if it shorts. I agree there are code issues and I pointed that out from the start. There are two separate issues here. The OP proposed using converting two separate circuits to a shared neutral circuit. The issue are -
1 - Will it work electrically? 2 - Can it be done in a code compliant manner.I said from the start that, yes it will work and there is no inherent safety issue provided a double pole breaker is used. On the other hand there have been posters claiming it will arc, short, you can't get 240V that way, the appliance won't work, etc. That is just flat out wrong.
And I said from the beginning that I don't see a code compliant way to do it, the code issue being that not all the conductors would be in the same cable. And that is to minimize inductive heating in metal raceways as well as what I would say is good practice to keep things in a logical grouping.
I don't think it is "roughly". AC powered clocks keep very good time for long periods. Though I have heard that sometimes the power generating companies keep track of how many cycles have taken place over some fixed period of time and slow down or speed up the generators to correct things.
Jeff
There was an episode of Superman where some criminal was holed up in some structure made of kryptonite or something that Superman could not penetrate to get him. The statute of limitation for his crime was approaching in a few days and he was waiting it out. So, superman got the power company to up the freq from 60hz so his clock would run faster and he's think the time limit had been hit and would come out. It worked.
Brass Rat 78 6-1 here
It is sort of roughly 60 Hz. The power company has at times slowed the frequency some ( maybe 1/2 or 1 Hz) during peak power loads. They will then raise it a small ammount during lower loads to keep an average over a long period of time. This keeps all the line powered clocks very close over a period of time.
The grid depends on the frequency being the same throughout the grid and it will self correct if they don't do it.
Given that the whole grid is tied together, I don't see how one power company could deviate from being at exactly 60hz without either disconnecting from the other grid sources or something very bad happening very quickly.
Cats are really stupid, I own several. I doubt rats are any better.
But it could self correct to 61.
Most clocks with a plug on them sync to the power line. In fact my battery back up clock (Sony clock radio) keeps perfect time as long as the power is on. On battery it really sucks. I suspect it is not even a crystal on backup mode but just a simple RC loop.
Every clock radio I've had seems to be terrible on battery. And I mean REALLY terrible, like 5 minutes out per hour. How hard can it be to get it better than this?
f*ck the code, if it works it works.
I know that. I was asking James more about his +/- attributions. I suspect I know what he actually meant now, so my question doesn't much matter anymore.
Hmm..
MID: I bought two mahjong machines in China to use in the US but I forgot they u= se 220 over there. So I want to install a US 220V 20A female receptor by u= sing two legs of 110V 15A circuits and mounting a box next to one of my 110= v outlets. That done I want to convert that over to 220V, neutral, & ground= to run my machines.
The cord into the machine has "L" "N" and "gnd". I want to combine the two 110 legs to one 220 leg.
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