Which is what the op said they want to do. They want to take two 120v circu its that are on opposite legs and use them for a 240v receptacle. There are code issues, but the physics works. They would wind up with support for bo th 120v at the existing outlets and 240 at the new one.
AC isn't
It depends on the two circuits being on opposing legs which you would do wi th a double pole breaker. But it's irrelevant if you are going to follow c ode because while it will work, it won't meet code.
You get 240 by using two existing circuits that are on opposite legs. And there would be no arcing because who would ever connect them together? You connect them to the LOAD.
so there'd be no point in using the same leg for l
Why would you ever connect the two wires period? YOU are the one that started talking about connecting the two wires together. The OP clearly stated what they were talking about. They were proposing to connect the
240V load between the two circuits that exist on opposite legs.
You wouldn't
And again, no one except you ever proposed connecting them together.
I clearly stated that while it will work, I don't see a way to do it code compliant.
As originally called for by whom?
Two, it's going
That's a valid point, the machine needs to be OK with 60 hz. We don't have any info one way or the other.
Three,
No, the neutral is not a hot wire, it's still a neutral. It becomes a shared neutral or Edison circuit.
And there you go again with the "single wire". That machine uses two wires, so does a 120V light bulb.
Like
Nonsense.
The equipment doesn't give a rat's ass. It wants 240V and it gets it from using the two hots from separate legs. At that point, it's just like your 240V water heater.
No, I never suggested they do it. I clearly pointed out that I can't see a way to do it so that it's code compatible. But the physics work just fine, there is no one wire, two wire issue. The code compatible way is to run a new 240V circuit.
I'm just not so sure it's a good idea for the OPs intended
You don't need the internal wiring, just the data sheet. If it is compatible with 240V 60hz, then it will work.
I can't imagine that the table actually draws 10 amps, that's just what the rating may say.
Also remember that if it's an induction motor in the table then the motor will run 20% faster with 60Hz power, hopefully it can still manage the tiles at that faster speed.
The first thing I would do is to connect it to a 220V outlet and measure the peak current with an amp clamp or wattage meter so you know how much current you actually need.
Don't you get a problem with earth leakage detection on the circuit breakers? In the UK this is quite simple, the breaker measures the current through 240v and through 0V, and if they differ, some must have escaped to ground and it cuts the power. Now how would this work in the USA, where you can have current flowing between -110V and +110V, or from one of the 110V wires to 0V? You'd have to have a very clever mechanism that monitored THREE currents and compared them all somehow.
But what I'm interested in is do you ever have 220V devices connected to the same +/-110V wires as 110V devices, off the same breaker? If so, how does this breaker cope with THREE possible current flows?
It would be interesting to know what the actual voltage was in the
50s. Decent meters were far beyond what a regular homeowner could afford. I know the nominal voltage we talked about creeped up throughout my life. 110 became 115, 117 and then 120. I also hear 125 from time to time. My panel normally cruises around 123-124. If I don't buy 130 volt bulbs, they don't last long. Fortunately they are not regulated.
Even before that, thing with transformers in them must have had regulators that accepted a small change. They would only take around 230 or around 120, but didn't mind 20 either way.
I haven't seen 240V and 120V receptacles on the same circuit. I would think mostly that's due to the fact that there is no need for it, eg dryers, stoves are dedicated circuits. But IDK of any code provision that prohibits it, nor is there any obvious safety issue. The breaker deals with it by doing what breakers do, limiting the current to the breaker rating.
se namby pamby circuit breakers, you just had -110V, 0V, +110V. You could take 110V from either of the 0V and 110V wires, or 220V from the two 110V w ires. Do the circuit breakers think there's an earth fault if you try to r un a 220V device off two 110V wires?
linked and run off a dual breaker which would accept a 220V device?
240v and through 0V, and if they differ, some must have escaped to ground a nd it cuts the power.
tween -110V and +110V, or from one of the 110V wires to 0V? You'd have to have a very clever mechanism that monitored THREE currents and compared the m all somehow.
First, most 240v breakers are not GFCI. Second, there are GFCI breakers that include a neutral, so they can detect the current flow and if it doesn't add up, ie sum of two hots and neutral is not zero, they trip.
And here was me thinking the US had MORE safety than the UK.
Anyway, the OP wanted to run 240v off the 120v system, so we'd be talking about a twin 120v GFCI breaker. Would it care if some current didn't go through neutral? I guess it can't, as two equal 120v loads would mean it never went into neutral at all.
So those could handle an array of loads at both voltages? I take it they're electronic, I can't begin to imagine how else that would work.
The GFCI is "clever" as you say but a regular breaker only measures the current on the ungrounded conductors, no matter where it ends up. You can have both available at the same location and we even have the devices to make it easy
formatting link
The top one is 240v 15 or 20a, the bottom is 120v 15 or 20a.
These days electronics don't really give a damn what you plug them into. Any thing with an inverter converter (switching) power supply have a wide mouth and they will run on anything from around 100v to
250v 50 or 60 hz. The first thing that happens is whatever you have gets converted to DC, chopped at a very high frequency and then down converted to whatever DC the device needs. That is real handy for international traveler or for marketing things globally. You have one piece of equipment that works anywhere with the right plug or plug adapter. It certainly worked out great for us in New Zealand. I had a couple of plug adapters with cube taps in them and we were good to go with everything we brought. (Laptops, phones, tablets, MP3 players etc)
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