Uninstalling old Price Pfister bathroom faucet.

[David Farber]

I'm trying to remove a leaking Price Pfister bathroom faucet to upgrade it with a new one. Presently, I'm having difficulty trying to disassemble the plumbing underneath the sink. Here are some photos:

Installation manual:

The entire faucet: Underneath the sink: I saw several DIY videos/diagrams on how to unlatch the quick connect tubing to the spout but have not been successful.

Also, if you look at the above link (underneath the sink) I've shown where the leak is. If it's something easy to fix, like a washer, I would like to fix it so we have a working faucet while we are awaiting a replacement fixture. The other problem is I can't figure out how to remove the brass adapter(?) where the supply hose attaches. I don't see it in the installation manual and I'm wondering if it was added on later for compatibility with the supply hose. It's very difficult to turn that adapter and I don't want to break anything. Is it removable with some CCW turning? In general, what is the specific order of steps to disassemble this fixture?

Thanks for your reply.

[hubops]

Have you looked at the installation manual pictures ? - step 4 shows the O-rings that are likely the source of the leak ; 5B 5C show how the metal spring clips hold the plastic winged pieces in place. This should help you remove the old one < ? >

John T.

[David Farber]

I looked at the image you're referencing. Keeping that in mind and then looking at the image I uploaded, it seems to me that the adapter(?) located beneath the spring clip, would prevent the removal of the parts above it. Does the photo in 5B/5C match what is under my sink? It seems to me there is that extra fitting that connects to the supply line (which doesn't want to be easily removed) before it connects to the lower end of the fixture.

Thanks for your reply.

[hubops]

part M6 looks slightly different - I can't tell from your photo if it matters or not. John T.

[David Farber]

Hi John,

I applied a good downward pull to that part with the "handles" on it (see page 4 of the manual) and it finally came off. The opening was wide enough to slide right over the adapter that I was unable to remove. I also was able to unlatch the quick connect tubing. The last remaining item is to obtain a spanner wrench to remove the nut under the sink that attaches the faucet stem to the countertop.

Thanks for your help.

[micky]

Congratulations.

They seem to be recommending the Price Pfister quick install tool but I'm not 100% positive the includes the last remaining nut. Maybe the comments on this will help you out.

There are also socket wrenches, deep sockets if need be, and sets of deep plumbing sockets which may or may not be useful in newer homes. In my house, 1979, one of them is needed for changing washers for the shower socket.

[David Farber]

I'm going to browse the plumbing section of HD tomorrow and see what the best deal is for the correct tool.

I also have a question about how the water flows from the supply hose, through the cartridge, and then through the spout. Does the water flow up from the supply hose into the cartridge and then back down through the same tube (perhaps via a different channel in the tube?) and then go into that that "T" quick connect tube which connects to the spout?

Thanks for your reply.

[hubops]

Don't over-think things - when you have it apart you'll see how it works. In terms of the installation manual's pictures just think of the water staying between the O-rings and the faucet regulating the outflow from that "chamber". You'll probably see the cause of the leak also - O-ring will be damaged. Probably the most critical/delicate aspect of installing the new fixture is to be careful not to damage the O-rings. John T.

[Scott Lurndal]

"Spanner Wrench" seems redundant.

The tool for the job is called a "Basin Wrench".

[hubops]

I think I owned one for about 20 years before I knew what it was used for ! .. it came in a mixed box lot at an auction sale. John T.

[Clare Snyder]

ALWAYS lubricate O rings with silicone grease before installation.

[micky]

LOL.

I bought a box of about 40 things, including hand tools, at a yard sale. I was traveling through Massachusetts and didn't have time to look through them until I got home.

One was not exactly a tool, it was a pistol ball mold, similar to this one

The part inside the arms is used to cut the lead stub from the molding process off of the ball.

I took it, or a picture of it, to a gun shop in denver and he figured it was iirc from the early 1800's. It's the oldest** thing I own.

But what really makes this story remarkable was that on the day I bought it I was heading to the birthplace or historic home of John Quincy Adams, in Quincy Mass, and I took the tour and they gave me a color brochure with pictures of things related to his life on it, and the only thing not directly related to his life as described in the text in the brochure was a pistol ball mold that looked just like the one I had bought miles away 2 hours earlier. What a coincidence.

**Second oldest is a US Army-issued blackjack, issued to an MP, in Cuba I think, during the Spanish-American war. It was given to me in the 1970's by the widow of the soldier it was issued to, when we lived at 420 Clinton. Unfortunately most of the woven leather covering of the weighted end had fallen off before I got it, and a girl, about my age, was playing with it and the rest fell off. But the leather handle, the spring, and the large lead weight at the end are still there and in good condition. I'd like to use it some day, but I'm still searching for someone to hit.

While I'm on the subject:

3rd oldest is either a record player from the 20's or 30's that used steel needles guaranteed to play 10 3-minute records, a small steamer used for medical reasons from the 30's I think, a large brass tray from before 1936, a suitcase made to order in 1936 out of something like cardboard with metal corners with which to bring the metal tray back from Palestine, framed pictures of my father in uniform (in one of them he's on a horse) from WWI (I guess this would have been taken about 1916 and framed about 1920), his framed high school and dental school diplomas (and although he graduated high school around 1909, he probably didn't frame the diploma until the 20's), an electric iron that is large and weighs a ton, but I have no idea how old it is, or other things I've forgotten. A beautiful end table designed by Norman Bel Geddes with a radio built in (that still worked well when I was given it around 1980 but didn't work the very next time), that comes from the 30's, given to me by the original owner. A couple other table radios like that, a beautiful cabinet from a 30's radio (but no guts), an large attractive (but not beautiful) cabinet from a phonograph that played through a wooden horn, whose volume was adjusted by opening or closing a roll-up wooden door, 24 volumes of Ryder notes (the predecessor to Sams) with schematics for radios and a few tv's from the 20's until maybe 1952. A 2'x 4' US Flag with pole from 1945. A 4'x 8' US flag from 1955, both with 48 stars. A Chickering baby grand piano with the most beautiful sound from the 1930's.

[David Farber]

After looking up and down the aisles of two different hardware stores and not finding the tool I thought I needed, I went under the sink again with a much brighter light and realized that while there were two notches on opposite sides of the nut, it was hexagonal shaped. :face plant: I located the exact 1.5" deep socket tool I needed in my tool drawer and was able to remove the nut.

Speaking of O rings and connectors, is it necessary to use Teflon tape on any of the fittings when reassembling?

Thanks for your reply.

[Bob F]

Teflon tape goes on tapered pipe fittings and little else.

[Scott Lurndal]

Leaving aside furniture from the late 19th century, this is one of my oldest objects:

My two were manufactured in 1908 and 1910.

The oldest object that I have is a Tiberius Denarius, dating to about 30 CE, just a few years short of

2000 years old.

[Scott Lurndal]

Did you try Home Depot?

[hubops]

I have some old tools that are believed to pre-date Home Depot - they look very similar to these :

John T.

[micky]

So you don't really need a computer.

That reminds me that I have a visible typewriter. Oliver brand? I don't remember the age now but it name is bragging that earlier ones typed on the underside of the carriage and you couldn't see what you'd written until a few lines later. This has half the keys on the left and half on the right and all come down on the paper from above. And it only has 3 rows of keys but you can shift either up or down and there are 3 characters for each key. And it's got the vowels for German. IIRC it's basically QWERTY. I found it lying abandoned, and the carriage didn't move. The band that pulls it was missing and I replace that but it still doesn't work well.

You've got me beat by over 1800 years.

You should be able to have a birthday party soon.

YOu remind me. I have some rocks too. I haven't put the groove in yet for the rope to tie the rock to a stick. I'm waiting until I have some spare time.

[hubops]

You need to _make_ time - take a leave from AHR - a long leave .. work on those urgent stone tool projects. John T. :-)

[micky]

That's a thought, but what I think I'll do is work on it while reading AHR. I only have to press a key occasionally and there is nots of spare time in between. I hope I dont' get mixed up and use the rock to hit the keys.