The kitchen sink overflowed due to a block and the water went along the
counter and into a drawer that is under the counter. The drawer was full
for about 30 minutes, got drained, but now wont slide back in the sliders.
This happened just last night, the drawers been open and airing since. Is
there any way to get it to where it is sliding in and out again? not too
many rollers, it seems to be that it's too tight between the rails.
Chuckle. My first apartment in this town had cheap cabinets like that,
too. One day, I pulled the silverware drawer next to the sink open, and
the damn thing just fell apart. It was stapled together, and the
chipboard had soaked up so much ambient moisture (no actual flood), that
the staples no longer held. I put the back corners back together with
duct tape. Chipboard is okay as underlayment in dry areas, and the
high-pressure stuff may be okay as a center layer in MDF, but
melamine-covered or naked chipboard is a lousy structural material.
You're basically screwed. Set the drawer out in the sun, with enough
weights and bar clamps to keep it square and the joints tight, and hope
for the best. Once it is completely dried out, try again. If the
chipboard swelled, you may have to sand the surfaces that contact the
glides or rails. Rub a candle stub over any touch points that don't feel
smooth to the fingertips.
If this your house, and not a rental, start saving for a new kitchen.
And look for cabinets that don't use chipboard other than maybe for skin
panels that aren't edge-fastened.
I mostly agree with you, but unless you are a rich man, try finding
modern cabinets that don't use at least MDF for the shelves, back and
end panels. The better ones at least use rails and blocks in the
corners, so they don't have fasteners going into the edge of a chipboard
panel. My preference for Real Wood cabinets is why I plan to strip the
horrible faux finish off the 1960 cabinets in this place, and try to
salvage the original finish underneath. The faux finish appears to be
water base, and ammonia cleaned a few test spots pretty well. I think
previous owner (or his wife) just deglossed the old cabinets, and
smeared away. If I can get the crap off, I can minwax the old finish,
and get something respectable looking. Too bad they also put multiple
layers of contact paper on all the shelves and drawer bottoms. No
painless way to remove that crap.
Too true. I was about to place an order for some bedroom closets
(very simple stuff, essentially just boxes with hanging rails and
shelves, no doors or anything complicated). $2600, after shopping
around on the internet for the best price/quality/reputation trade-off
(about 20 feet of closet, in all). And that's just for laminated
chipboard. I just couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger. Priced
up the materials in Menards today, and I reckon I can do it for about
8-12 sheets of decent cabinet grade plywood and off-the-shelf hardware
that I will need. No more than $500 for materials, and probably about
a couple of weekends of my labor (most of which will be spent on
staining/varnishing I am guessing). But they will be great material,
sturdy, and I can tailor to meet my exact needs. I know the price of
labor is high, but with high-volume production lines to handle the
finishing etc, does it really have to be so expensive for decent
I refinished dark oak cabinets for a friend of a friend, for hire.
Going along very nicely until I got to the end panels, whereupon I
discovered that the end panels were fake woodgrain on particle board.
On the verge of both suicide and a nervous breakdown, I got out my art
stuff and painted oak grain onto the end panels. The friend got more
than her money's worth - if I painted to earn a living, I'd have starved
long ago :o)
Is the drawer particle board? PB always swells when wet and, if wet
enough, will start crumbling because some of the glue has dissolved.
For starters, need to find whether the drawer or the frame has swelled
and try sanding down whichever it is. I had a couple of bath cabinet
doors that did this over the years previous to our residing...I
eventually dug out the crumbling PB, filled with spackle and repainted.
Of course, it wasn't a huge defect or the spackle would not have held.
We had a washer hose burst about a month after doing a major remodel of
our kitchen....water about 1" deep at the worst in kitchen. Had we not
been home or if we had PB cabinets, they'd have been trashed. We
refaced our old built-in-place ply cabinets, and got the water cleaned
up right away, so there was no damage.
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