We just bought a house with a fiberglass tub.
There is a leak and yes at the drain. The tub has movement...you can feel
So, after opening first floor ceiling the problem is right there...the tub
is not bedded
and will start leaking again. In fact I found out from the plumber
he'd did the same repiar....tightneing nut and plumbers putty three time in
the last two years.
The question is it seems like it's easier to change out to a cast iron tub
rather than trying to set this one into mortar
mix. The house is in CA so in addition to normal movement of settling we
get the occassional
earthquake some which aren't strong but still shake and twist.
You may be right about it being easier to swap it out for a
cast iron (or maybe steel) tub.
I have heard of injecting expanding foam under a tub like this,
although I haven't done it myself. Could be worth looking into.
I just finished removing an old cast iron tub and replacing it with a
new fiberglass whirlpool tub. If I were you I would avoid putting in
a cast iron tub. They are very heavy and very difficult to move. The
fiberglass tub that I installed required only two people to move &
install. Since you have to remove the wall board and tile regardless
of which tub you decide the easiest way to go would be setting your
existing tub in a bed of cement. You really don't need that much
cement. The Kohler tub I purchased required a 2" layer of cement in a
small area underneath the basin of the tub (equivelent to two 3 gallon
buckets of cement). Since the drains for your tub are already aligned
with the existing plumbing in the house there will be no need to worry
about re-aligning the drains if you were go install a cast iron tub.
If you decide to keep your existing tub and put a cement bed
underneath it make you you put down a plastic drop cloth between the
tub and cement. This will allow you to remove the tub at a later date
if you need to.
We founf out today this is the third "glass tube" in the house in less than
The first one cracked. The problem is there is no bed.....as you suggested.
Glass tubs don't do well without out it ...they prone to crack and have
We may go the bed route and do it from below to avoid breaking out the
Thanks....you are right iron tubs are pretty heavy!!!
Changing to a cast iron tub may not be a panacea. I just installed a
Kohler cast iron tub and had difficulty getting a leak free joint at the
drain. I hope it is leak free now.
The only good thing is that it can be repaired from above the tub.
Kohler's drain is made with two small protrusions inside the drain that
are intended to be engaged by a pair of pliers that are stuck down into
the drain. You then turn them to unscrew the drain and new plumber's
putty can be placed under the drain flange. Retighten the drain flange
and you may be fixed.
Terry Cano wrote:
If you continue to have problems, try adding a little silicone (caulk)
to the putty. Or, skip the putty and use a bead of clear silicone
The only drawback to using just caulk is that it may be more
difficult to get the drain fitting apart again:-(
Do you have an opinion on the best way to connect the brass tail piece
(scratch threaded brass piece) exiting horizontally from the tee to
1-1/2 schedule 40 PVC. The drain assembly, including the tail piece is
made by Kohler.
My drain is 2" schedule 40 PVC but I need a short piece on 1-1/2" PVC
connected to the tail piece to make it over a Glu-Lam. I don't want to
notch the Glu-Lam.
Speedy Jim wrote:
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