I have a 3 yr old home and it appears when the "plumbers" installed my tub
they used a prybar in the drain to position it and cracked it. They then
hired a professional to repair it. Well, it started leaking from the
upstairs to my bathroom downstairs. I couldn't find it so I replaced the
qauter round and re caulked it. The put in a shower door. I'm thinking the
whole time that my teenagers are just being sloppy and it's leaking around
the tub because I couldn't see it in the tub. And when I disassembled the
faucet/shower I couldn't find a leak. I kept looking and decided to re
putty the drain. It still leaked. That's when I finally noticed the
hairline border around the repaired crack! arrgghh. Of course I contacted
the builder and they had a good laugh I'm sure.
anyway, the crack appears to be about 2" long on the floor of the tub and
about 1/2" wide in the center. I have to assume it goes down the drain as
well because the leakage slowed considerably when I reputtied it.
For now I just want to stop the leak with some adhesive. The tub is you
basic molded plastic/fiberglass(?) shower/tub combo. I imagine in the
future I will have to rip it out and put in a completely different type of
tub, unless I decide to take the dorr out to fit a molded one back in.
Any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome.
I should mention that the 1/2" wide is because the repair material is still
intact but it is leaking around it. I am hoping to put like some superglue
to rebind the two. But want to hear from the experience in this group 1st.
thanks again, Bill
I've had good luck using gas tank repair putty on all my leaks.
Any patch that will work on a gas tank that is full of gasoline has
to be the best.
Some people have not learned to use however. You cut off a chunk and
roll it in your hand until it get hot and then slap it on the crack
while it is still heating.
And you need to support the bottom of the tub so there is no flex
when standing on the drain area. Use the gas tank putty to finish off
to make a solid support.
On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 10:43:59 -0500, "Bill Reece"
On one of the Real Estate Guy radio shows mention a new consumer friendly
law passed which protects you from workmanship and defects for a very long
time, if not forever. If this applies to your builder, I don't think they be
laughing very loud. The damage to downstairs could amount to a substantial
sum, even though you don't see the damage other than water stains. If leaks
continue I would open up the ceiling and let it breath and air dry. Also you
should get this fixed ASAP before any mold sets in.
Either case would be expensive, see where your builder stand first.
Fiberglass should be easy to repair.
You need to find a lawyer and buy an hours worth of advice. It's hard to
say but I suspect that this is the plumber's problem, not yours. Since this
was a "hidden"problem the statute of limitations likely does not apply yet.
So talk to a lawyer, the plumber, the builder (?), and the various insurers.
You should get a new tub and extensive repair of the leak damage if there is
any justice where you live.
Considering the high prices on these combos, and labor involved, it
might be prudent to hire a specialist for permanent repair. Check your
Yellow pages, get references, of course, and quotes and weigh that
against the likely $2K a replacement would cost. If your area lists no
qualified people, you could still have a good repair done by any boat
shop hull repair specialist. As a last resort, you could do some
serious research and buy polyester or epoxy repair materials and give
it a go. It isn't all that hard to grind away the hurt and bond the
good pieces back in shape. While the latter might not look great, it
would be durable and low cost. Good luck.
I had one of those combos when I moved in to my house. It actually split along
the bottom (and I'm normal weight). Duct tape did the trick until I remodded
the bathroom (though that probably wouldn't work here).
IMO the real answer to this is to upgrade the bathroom to a cast iron tub and
tile surround. It's a substandard setup to begin with.
But of course one may not have the wherewithall currently to do that. I'd see
first if I could pursue this in small claims court and/or what you've suggested.
well, thanks so far.
I can't get to the underside of the tub without ripping out the ceiling of
my downstairs bathroom. So, I guess the gas tank putty is out.
I have asked my builder they sent the go-between company out to investigate
and then said no dice.
I hate lawyers and they make my skin crawl but maybe I need one here. But
should I put my 2k in fixing the tub or put 2k into a lawyer and make them
fix the tub. How do you know the lawyer isn't bought off behind the deal
anyway. Is there a way to get a honest lawyer?
After rereading David's advice I may go to my home owner insurance company
and have them advise me. Surely, they have a lawyer in their pocket.
Thanks again, Bill
Before you hire a lawyer, you can play one yourself. Send the
builder a written letter that sets out the problem and demands
a solution. You can make it clear that if the problem is not
solved within a reasonable time, you will be forced to take
additional steps including but not limited to contacting the
BBB, State Licensing Board etc etc.
And even if you do hire a lawyer later on, a copy of this
letter is the *first* thing he/she will want from you, so
you might as well get it done. Today ;-)
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
Sending the letter, certified, is appropriate. Do not issue specific
"We demand that you contact us within ten days of receipt of this letter to
schedule the appropriate remedial action."
I don't know where you live but most states (all but Kentucky[*])
have a small claims limit above $2K. You don't need a lawyer for
small claims court. There are guides available for free or cheap
that tell how to go about it in each states.
[*] http://www.nolo.com/article.cfm/objectID/ADF1FA1B-C67D-4B95 -
yep, you guessed it. I live in Kentucky.
But I wrote a letter and e-mailed it to them. But I will make a hard copy
and send it certified.
oh, I will check out that nolo site, thanks again
While it may not hurt to speak with your insurer that's not what I meant.
You need to speak with the plumber's and the builder's insurers. And follow
up with a letter to the person you speak with. But first buy an hour or two
of a lawyer's time and get advice about your local laws and your chances for
a successful suit or settlement and a good strategy. Obviously it will be
cheaper to settle than to sue. Since you do not know what damage these leaks
have done you can't yet presume that this is a small claims case.
First thing I'd do is check any new home warranty that you have.
Here in NJ, these are routine and cover a variety of faults for
varying periods, depending on whether it's structural or just a
leak. You may find that at 3 years, it's covered.
Then, if the builder refuses to have it fixed, I wouldn;'t waste money
a lawyer. Get it fixed and then sue the builder in small claims.
Even with a lawyer, they could still tell you to get lost, because
they know the lawyer threatening to sue is just an idle threat,
because these cases in regular court are prohibitively expensive.
With $1500 limit in small claims, I would think that should about
If the tub was damaged with a 2 inch X 1/2" crack, I would have
insisted on a new tub and not have accepted a repair, at least not
without a big fight prior to closing.
OK!, thanks for all the advice:
A rep from the builders is coming out Friday with either "the plumber" or "a
plumber". I'm not sure which, but I hope it's "a plumber" because I do not
intend to debate it with "the plumber". If that is the case and he is
contentious with me, then I'll not engage. Instead I'll let him blather.
No, I haven't talked to a lawyer, yet. And hope I never have to if I play
my cards right.
thanks again, I'll keep ya'll posted.
I just had my builder, thier plumber, and a tub repair guy here looking at
my upstairs tub. They had thier repair guy look at it and he determined it
not to be a repair but a factory defect. So, they want to know if I want it
patched or replaced. A lot to consider here because of the framed in tub
would be a big job and a lot of inconvience whereas a patch would be quick
and they say very reliable. I'm going to research it some. But I am just
glad they are going to do something about it. And they all seemed very
honest and forthright about it. I think maybe the earlier response was a
bad call by the warranty company.
Does anyone know how reliable these patches are?
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.