I currently have a deck comprised of barn boards,
which needs to be removed. Someone suggested using
a sawzall to cut the nails from underneath. (I do have
easy access to the underside of the deck.)
I had thought of drilling around each nail with a
small hole saw, say 1" size, such that the nail would
fall bewteen the saw and the center drill bit. Then remove
each plank and saw off the remaining nails (with wood
chunks around them) with a sawzall. Isuppose that, while
neat, this would be painfully slow.
Any other bright ideas? Looks like a lot of work to me
no matter how you do it.
I removed a dozen deck boards using a nail puller (search on google), made
by Crescent. It has an outer sleeve that is manually clunked downward,
imbedding the claw-puller around the nailhead. Then the handle is pried
laterally, pulling the nail out. Advantage: the boards can be re-used.
OTOH, for a project your scale, you might consider pounding near the joists
from the underside, using a 5 or 7 lb. sledge, loosening the nails that way,
starting from one end of the boards. You can use a 2x4 or 2x6 , end-on, to
transmit the blows.
It looks like you are trying to re-invent the wheel. Unless you are
trying to salvage the boards you use a wrecking bar (wonder bar, see
your local hardware store, is great) and pretty much trash the first
board, From there it is just a matter of prying a bit to pop the
nails on the next board, pulling the nails and repeat. Also pounding
a bit underneath with a sledge will pop the nails enought to pull. Of
course if it was nailed with glue coats or spiral nails all bets are
I have found that this works quite well and is fast..
1. Cut the deck boards on both sides of the joist with a sawzall or chain
2. Split the remaining wood piece away from the nails.
3. Draw out the nails/ Cut off the nails or Drive the nails down
replying to Harry K, Sailingflutist wrote:
You're right about blasted spiral nails, UNLESS the joists below are rotten. My
joists must be REAL good cause using the wonder bar with hammer just rips the
nail head through the wood. Too bad cause the bottom is still smooth with no
cracks and treatment still evident. I could otherwise still get several years
worth of use. I am going to try that 6ft 2x4 with 2 ft 2x4 cross piece I read
about. Place 2 fter about 1 ft from end of 6 fter (flat of 2 fter against edge
of 6 fter) making cross and lever up from side but I might need to use 2x6.
Probably start w/2x6.
Thanks for the advice. I have no desire to salvage the
I will try each method and see what's the easiest for
me. (I'll purchase a nail puller at the end if necessary.)
Some great ideas here.
last time i did dad's deck I pulled the 3 nails at the far end of a
12' board grabbed ahold of the end and squated the remainder. pull
like hell and they'll all pop. unless someone used rink shank nails
then get out the sawzall.
Sorry, I'm late to thread also, but I can attest to the tool mentioned
above. It makes it EXTREMELY easy to remove deck boards. I've even
been able to pull boards from ring shank nails and even screws on
older decks, with the wood a little rotten. It might leave the screw
or nail behind, but it's much easier to work with.
I actually welded something together, like this tool, before I knew
they made one. Looking at this picture, you MIGHT need a cheater on
it for the really tough boards.
But I highly recommend this tool!
In an older building, with a tub/shower combo, the shower surround seems
to be panels of a sort of waterproof surface on (what is the 4x8 panel
material that looks like pressed cardboard? I can't think of the name).
The panels are secured on top and bottom? with aluminum channels, and
caulked. Installed over plaster or maybe drywall. These are not a one
piece tub surround, or a multipiece tub surround, but individual panels.
Does anyone still make the panels (not a tub surround, but individual
panels) for this application? One other problem is the tub surround has
5'4" dimension as the long one, rather than 5'0".
I replaced the decking on a boat dock a few years ago. The tool I found to work
the best was a fence post tamper, with a chisel like end opposite the tamper
end. As long as there is a small gap between the boards, it works great. Don't
even have to bend over to pry the boards up. It saved a LOT of time and back
Is it me or what ? The guy recomends a fence tamping tool ,tells you
how easy it was . Only draw back was you need space between the boards.
Your reply was no space thanks anyway.
Need I point out the obvious ???
Did you ever think to remove one board first ? Now you have a space. If
need be use a small block of wood to support the bar if the new space
you just created is to wide.
Something as long as the tamping bar will give you plenty of leverage
and like the guy said it will save your back.
replying to Jim Sullivan, Sailingflutist wrote:
Jim, being in WA those deck boards must be treated/wolmanized. In MI it is
illegal to burn such, esp the older as it puts off cyanide when burned. Be
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