It's an Avocado tree stump. The tree was cut down 3 years ago. All
that remains is a 2' stump, 18" in diameter. I have a 20" Poulan Pro,
an 1 1/8" yacht braid rope and a 1 ton truck. Tool and method
suggestions, please! TIA!
Wrong tools listed. You need a shovel, spade, axe, pick, your rope, truck
and one of those big red digger bars for digging post holes is also handy to
have.. You have to dig around the stump cutting all roots and pray that an
avocado tree does have a tap root. Just before you see Chinese folks in the
bottom of your moat you will be done. Then when the stump wobbles you
might be able to pull it out with your truck. Having done this once or
twice I believe a license should be required to plant a tree and to qualify
for the license you have to dig out a stump.
Don't use your saw you will dull the blade almost instantly when it hits the
Okay, got all that but the post hole digger and axe. Guess I'm off to
the store for the axe. I'm doing all right with my selection of shovels
and digging bars, so I can work around the post hole digger. Of course,
the local warehouse has a stump grinder for $100 a day. Should I?? I
just need to get everything 4-6" below grade to continue my "sidewalk"
work. Local arborists want $150 - 250 to grind it. Being the cheap guy
that I am...........
Are we in China yet?? It's deeper than the pics show. I'm about 3' or
so down below grade. http://www.bunchobikes.com/tree.htm That stump is
about 18" at the widest on top which will probably put it at 24" at grade.
That big root in the lower right of your picture needs to be cut and
undermined. I also bet it has a brother or sister on the truck side of the
stump. Remember the stump must wobble a bit before you can pull it out.
The more dirt you move on the truck side the easier the pull-out. At least
it looks like your have a decent digable dirt.
Since you started by only wanting it a few inches below grade you are
done with only a few minutes work left. Ignore the 'don't use a chain
saw' nay sayers. You have it well clear. Hose the ***t out of it,
cut it with the saw just about the rosette of roots. If it dulls so
what? Only takes a few minutes to re-sharpen or less than $10 to pay
a shop to do it. The little dirt you will still be cutting isn't
going to hurt the saw.
Yeah, what if the roots push up the sidewalk later on and ruin your work?
If it was simply in the yard someplace I'd do it yourself. This one you
have I'd get a pro to grind it. You might get a cheaper price if you can
find anyone with a hand operated chipper. It's still a big machine, but
cheaper for them to operate.
I had a tree stump so big that 2 people couldn't stretch around and touch
each other's fingers. One place with a chipper on a truck wanted $1,000.
By chance I found a place that had the smaller machine and it was $400.
<< Tool and method suggestions, please! >>
Based om my own experience and echoing many posts in this NG, a commercial
stump grinder does it best. That said, in your case if you can afford the time
and effort to get access to all the roots and hack them off, you may be able to
pull the stump out. Forget the chain saw for this chore and use a nice sharp
Check some of the tool rental stores for other equipment ideas. You may want a
long 1/2" chain with a grab hook and slip hook instead of the rope, too. Might
be a good idea to check the Owners Manual for your truck to pick out the best
place to attach your pulling device. No point in duplicating the famous scene
in "American Graffiti". Good luck.
I'm not worried about my rope. It came off of a material handler (
crane ) and is rated much higher than a 1/2" chain. Will take a heck of
a shock load too! Are chains rated? Everything will be rigged to my
Class V hitch.
Good. With a smaller rope, I would be worried that the rope is
stretchy. What happens then is that you store a heck of a lot of
energy in the stretched rope, and when something breaks, the rope
itself, or whatever is at the end of the rope (for example a nice
steel hook, a few pounds) goes flying like a missile. That's why
chains are preferable: They don't stretch (much), instead they fail.
With your heavy hitch, there is PROBABLY no way you can damage the
truck, given that you are using only the tires (in 4WD, preferably) to
generate tension. It is easy to damage the frame of a truck by using
a winch. Try this: Chain your trailer hitch to a solid tree, tie your
winch cable to another solid tree, and turn the winch on. If you get
lucky, you just tear the hitch or the front bumper off. If you get
unlucky, you end up with a strangely twisted truck. I once saw a
bunch of clowns using the winch on a 1-ton truck to make sure a
douglas fir that was being felled goes in the right direction. The
tree (at least 100' tall) decided to go the other direction, and first
the truck got pulled rather rapidly about 30 or 50 feet through the
dirt, and then the front bumper with the winch tore off. When the
dust settled, the rear axle was gone (it had snagged on a stump), the
frame was very twisted, and the front of the truck looked awful (the
front bumper didn't come off without a fight). Interestingly, nobody
was hurt, and no houses were squished.
Other than my obnoxious warnings, the plan that has been laid out here
looks sound: Chop at the roots, going deeper and deeper. There is one
part I disagree with: If you carefully remove as much dirt as
possible, you can use a chainsaw on roots, and on the piece of the
trunk that is belowground. This will still cause rapid wear to the
chain (there are often rocks or dirt embedded in the wood down there),
but that's nothing a little sharpening won't cure. And a new chain is
only $20 or so. The advantage of this can be that you can make the
stump much smaller (remove bits of it), or you can split it into
several parts, and yank those out separately.
What we did once successfully on a 3' diameter Madrone stump was to
cut a 8" trench into the stump with a chainsaw (fundamentally making a
very large slot or dado in it), and then split it in half with two
hydraulic bottle jacks placed in the trench. Each half was then
reasonably easy to remove. This was in a location (on a steep slope)
where stump-grinding is not an option.
The address in the header is invalid for obvious reasons. Please
reconstruct the address from the information below (look for _).
Yeah, I vote for dynamite or else just waiting till you see a tree
removal service close by in the area. Ask them how much to stop by
while they are there and grind it down, which will take 10 mins too.
It's a lot quieter, though a little more expensive.
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