I've found with dipped coatings (I use a rubberized dip on pliers and other
tools) you have to use more coats/dips than the manufacturer typically
recommends. It's like paint, fertilizer or anything like that - they very
often overstate the coverage to make the product seem more economical.
Once a pit or surface imperfection of any kind occurs, the corrosion process
can work from the inside out. The thicker the coating, the more resistant
it becomes to mechanical damage that can lead to corrosion. The obvious
problems you face are that some items won't function correctly with too
heavy a coating and as DadiOH pointed, mechanical wear may strip even the
heaviest coating eventually.
You may have to save some of the coating material in a touch-up bottle and
inspect the unit from time to time for signs of coating wear and treat
On Friday, August 2, 2013 7:49:44 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
I don't know if I'd go to all the above steps, but agree in
general with the approach. I was thinking wire brush off all the
loose, rusted stuff and then use one of the Rustoleum primers
designed for rusty areas, followed by two Rustoleum top coats.
Thanks, but...and then what?
What would you suggest I
use as a finish coat? Reading the
instructions for the Cold Galvenizing Compound seems to indicate
that any type of primer wouldn't make sense because you want the
compound to interact with the metal itself.
It's not 100% clear to me yet, but it appears the CG compound can
be applied over rust to transform it as well as hide it.
Obviously loose, flaking rust needs to be removed, but apparently
not all of it.
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On Friday, August 2, 2013 11:54:43 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
The long and short of it is nothing you do will ever be permanent. You will have to clean and recoat every few years to keep the rust at bay.
In order for the paint/coating/whatever to "revent rust" it has to have 100% perfect preparation, 100% perfect adhesion, and can never ever get chipped dinged worn scratched in any way.
In other words, it's impossible. You will notice that when you read the guarantees on these "no rust" products: "We say it won't rust, but if it does it's your fault because you didn't apply the paint properly to a properly prepared surface."
All it takes is missing one little speck of rust in your prep, one little ding or scratch, and rust will soon take over.
On Friday, August 2, 2013 8:02:13 AM UTC-5, bob haller wrote:
Yeah that is probably the right answer
Electrolytic derusting will prep the metal the best you can if you want to try painting the old ones again
I like the idea of cold galvanizing paint. POR-15 is another option. However pretty much any good paint should work well if you electrolytically derust as the surface will not have any rust to spread and will have decent tooth for adhesion.
I would have at least found out how much nickel plating your parts would
cost before buying that cold galvanizing compound. You might have found
that the nickel plating would only be a few dollars more, and you KNOW
nickel plating is gonna work well. There's no question in my mind about
On Saturday, August 3, 2013 11:14:32 AM UTC-5, nestork wrote:
I suspect that anything is only going to last a couple years anyway. Unles
s the hinge pins are removable, there is no way to coat/plate them with any
thing, and even if they are, there will be wear between the hinge pieces an
d the pins eventually developing corrosion. The only set and forget it fix
is a set of stainless hinges, or hinges made from some other corrosion res
Even an excellent job will still result in brown rust dust creeping out in
the actual working areas of the hinge after a while unless it's religiously
Thanks for the pointer. Just put it on my Home Depot shopping list.
Apparently the "magic" of the product is that it contains lots of powdered
zinc. It will be interesting to see how it holds up. Seems to require a
pretty clean and well-prepped surface for maximum adhesion and that's
sometimes a problem with items that are difficult to clean well before
On a slightly related subject I was talking to an Army surgeon this weekend
at barbeque held by my wife's old USAR unit. He was really pissed that the
Army was forcing them to use Pakistani made stainless steel surgical
instruments because he's already had one break during surgery - he named the
scissor - it's used for cutting tendons - but I forgot what they're called.
His other complaint is how easily much of the foreign-made stainless steel
equipment develops discoloration spots that never appeared on American-made
surgical tools. The perils of going with the lowest bid, I suppose.
You might want to put it on your Lowe's shopping list. My local HD only
carries the Cold Galvanizing Compound which is flat grey, not silver. My
local Lowe's carries Bright Galvanizing Compound, which, going by the cap
cover, does appear to the more silver than grey.
I cleaned up my hinges and other trailer parts yesterday. I'll be using the
Bright compound tonight. I'll post some pictures when I'm done.
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