One of the bolts that holds the toilet tank to the toilet base rusted and
broke so I replaced both of them. When I replaced the tank and tightened
everything down, everything was fine until I flushed and then I had water
leaking from the bottom of the tank. I believe that it was leaking from
around the gasket; however I purchased a new gasket and still have the same
leaking problem. Does the gasket go directly into the ceramic part of the
toilet base or do I need to replace some other part? Is there something
that I should be doing that I'm not? Any suggestions, please!
My guess is somewhere along in the process, likely when you "tightened
everything down" you may have tightened a little too much and now you have a
crack, which means new tank (you can't really fix those cracks) and
considering the age of the toilet, I would just replace the whole thing with
a good quality one. Don't judge quality by price.
Buying by brand name is not a good idea. Most brands make good models
and poor models.
Many of the water savers are very good, some are very bad. I was looking
at a few the other day. Limiting it to standard looking models (no color or
special designer looks) I found models priced from $39.95 to $289.95.
All the cheaper models (which likely make up 90+% of the total sold,
especially to contractor homes) have 1.75" traps unglazed. The better ones
had 2" or larger traps with additional water surface areas and the trap
areas were glazed. Some even had special pressurized water tanks.
Consider the difference. Have you felt the surface of an unglazed
ceramic surface? That along with poor design, small opening etc. all
contribute to poor performance. Using a lot of water was just a cheap way
of getting around bad design.
Get a good water saver and you will be fine. Get a cheap model of any
design and you will have problems.
BTW most water savers have a dual flush system. A single press uses
1.6, holding it down gets you about twice that, which is about what the old
ones used. So if you just hold the handle down a few seconds when needed,
you get the additional flush as well as saving water when you don't need it.
A very large market for them are builders who want the cheapest thing
that meets the code, so they all make one. You don't want this. They all
also make nice looking models that have a lot of appeal until you get them
home and you find that the working parts are the same as the builder's
Consumer Reports magazine did a report on them not long ago, you should
be able to find a copy in the library. That may help.
Most people seem to be very happy with the American Standard Cadet
models. Note that they do make more than one model in that line and pay
attention to the trap design in which one you pick. Others like the Gerber
(sp) power flush line. They are a little nosier and have a little more
complex flushing system, but it is very effective.
Lowes has a nice web page that shows photos of much of this and even
Uh, Joseph.... I don't doubt that a lot of tanks get cracked through
overtightening of the hold down bolts, but.....
The OP said, "everything was fine until I flushed and then I had water
leaking from the bottom of the tank."
That "then" sure sounds like he's saying the tank was filled and NOT
leaking BEFORE the flush. I thought I understood the mechanics of
typical toilet construction and operation, but I'm always willing to
learn more. How does the OP's story jive with a cracked tank?
Sounds a lot more like a gasket leak to me. Possibly the first gasket
was no good for reuse and the replacement is not thick enough or got
shifted out of place. I may not be right about that, but I think it's
"the way to bet" in the absence of further details from the OP, like
does it stop leaking after it's through with a flushing.
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"If you can smile when things are going wrong, you've thought of someone
My guess it that it was leaking before he noticed it. Another
possibility is that the fill tube is spraying inside the tank and that some
of it oversprayed over the top and ran down looking like it was leaking at
Ya know, you may have problems that you didn't know about, and discovered
when you flushed. So when you talk about the gasket, my question is 'how did
you tighten it down'?
There is a correct way, and an incredibly wrong way, and both ways appear to
be acceptable within the industry. One way is to have the bolt head and
washer in the tank, and the nut and another washer under the commode, and
tight till there's no leak. Just imagine how easy it would be to crack
porcelain that way!!!!
The other way is to be including a thin nut and washer under the tank. So
with flapper valve in place, you could walk around with a filled tank
without a leak. If you can do that, and then find that a leak happens when
you flush, then you can look to that gasket you mention.
BTW, I am a fan of the American Standard Cadet, but I just recently
installed a Kohler Wellworth for my mother, and am very pleased with it,
I recently had a similar problem with a gerber toilet in my upstairs bathroom.
Even after replacing the large tank to bowl gasket, I had a regular gully washer
when I flushed. It turned out that the "universal" replacement gasket from the
Borg just wasn't quite thick enough for the Gerber. The original gasket fell
apart when I first pulled the unit apart so I really had nothing to compare it
Anyway, once I got the proper "fatter" gasket (from a plumber), it was good to
go (pardon the pun).
I agree with Michael Baugh's reply. There should be two nuts on each bolt. The
thin nut under the tank compresses the gasket in the tank and prevents leaking.
The other nut at the end of the bolt merely holds the tank in place. The bowl
should have bolt holes which are large enough to allow the thin nut to project
through downward. If not, rubber strip spacers can be used between the tank
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