About 10 years ago I insulated the toilet tank with a kit from Home Depot
maybe. After some years it finally gave up the ghost. I'd like to insulate
it again but the kits I see now are the white styrofoam not the closed cell
translucent sheets I'd used previously. Before I can redo it though I've got
to get rid of the old adhesive inside the tank. Any ideas on a good product
to get rid of this residue?
Know if they still sell that closed cell insulation instead of
this styrofoam? Haven't checked any local plumbing shops yet.
I suggest that you are asking the wrong question.
I'll ask you, why do you want to insulate it?
The condensation forms steadily on a tank when the
flapper valve leaks, causing a steady source of chilled
water to have to be delivered to the tank.
I'd like to insulate because in winter the incoming supply of water is
fairly cold. My basement is unheated which doesn't give the supply pipes a
chance to warm up at all. When this water settles in the toilet tank, the
difference in temperature between the water in the tank and the ambient air
in the bathroom causes the tank to sweat a lot. When the tank was insulated
before it cut down on the amount of dripping water I had to towel up
Understood. And it's a very commom condition.
But consider that it may also represent the existence
of rather high humidity in the bathroom.
My first suggestion is to put in one of "leak sentry"
fill valves from Fluidmaster. It keeps the float from
dropping as water leaks past the flapper valve, so you only
have new water coming in when someone actually flushes.
Second suggestion is that you notice whether you have
any mold forming in the bathroom. Because it needs humidity
of 55% to form and thrive. Plenty of condensate at the tank
would suggest plenty of available moisture in the air.
I've seen an insulating kit at Home Depot, with the Styrofoam
panels enclosed in plastic to keep their cells from getting
water-logged, but I see that as a Band-Aid to cover the existence
of other conditions that should be corrected.
Nope, I don't have mold forming anymore, now that I have insulated
my outside wall with Styrofoam, installed a humidity-sensing vent
fan, and a 52" ceiling fan to run when the light is turned on. No
condensate on the tank either, unless the toilet gets flushed during
or immediately before someone's shower.
Not he only way it forms. Cold well water, repeated use with a few family
members. Don't know if they still do, but American Standard offered a liner
for just that reason.
Don't be afraid to open your mind to other conditions that your own house.
Why not install a mixing valve from the hot water line? Mix in just enough
hot water to the fill to keep the water below the dew point. Find the
humidity of the room and adjust the valve to get the desired temp. Wastes a
little hot water but solves the condensation problem.
The temperature of my 300+ feet deep well water filling the tank is
about 55º F year round. If the bathroom is warmer than 55º, any
humidity, even the least amount of ambient humidity in the house air,
condenses on the tank continually until the water in the tank reaches
room temperature, where condensation no longer forms. This can be a
couple of hours, unless flushed again. Until that time, the condensation
builds up and the excess drips onto the floor. Insulating the inside of
the tank with foam, or the outside of the tank with those nice fuzzy
covers that disguises your toilet so it looks like an upholstered chair,
prevents the condensation from forming on the cold tank. All without
using using electricity.
No mold in the bathroom since fan is used during and after showers
for a long time to evacuate most if not all the excess moisture. Simply due
to difference in temp between air and water in the tank. Thought of
installing a mixing valve but most people I've talked to that have had them
say that they plug up after a while and have to be replaced. It seems the
insulation of the tank lasted at least 10-12 years for short money too.
Just can't find the old type of insulation I had in there.
Think I should just scrape the old adhesive off from the inside of
Yep. And if you save all those styrofoam sheets that come in many boxes,
you can do it all for the price of the glue alone. :-)
A couple of months ago. I bought a 3 tier resin garden fountain from
Lowes. It came in a large plastic box that was corrugated like the
cardboard ones. Both my wife and I stated what a good, sturdy, well
built box it was. I still have it in the garage, wondering what I can do
with it. :-)
I can tell you that almost all of the styrofoam insulation that failed
was on the bottom of the tank, The sides are still intact. I just looked
in there and there are still little styrofoam balls floating on the
surface of the water. I put this styrofoam kit in the tank more than 10
years ago, so the life span of both is about the same. I don't have much
glue left on the bottom of the tank other than a few 1" round spots
where the styrofoam is gone, since I had just tacked it in there.
Perhaps if I had put a lot of glue in there, the bottom wouldn't have
broken up. I don't know if you can scrape it out, but I suppose it can
be done. I'm not going to bother.
I'll look for some of that foam. I was concerned about the glue
because sometimes it can actually eat away at the styrofoam and not perform
as glue but solvent. Don't have a Lowe's around here yet but one is being
built as we speak. I'm sure I can squirrel something up though. Thanks for
the answers and ideas.
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