I don't understand why my new toilet leaks between the tank and the bowl
(Crane Plumbing toilet). I put in the foam seal on the proper
orientation, I tightened the two bolts (with rubber washers) evenly. I
tightened them until the tank barely touches the bowl ribs. I followed all
the instructions, so I don't know why I still got a leak? I assume the
leak is at the seal and not at the bolts. I can see that the rubber
washers are well seal and compressed inside the tank. Any ideas?
that came with the toilet needed more rubber washers and nuts. Needed the
rubber washer that goes under the hold down bolts, plus another rubber
washer right under the tank followed by a nut to compress the two washers
against the tank to seal the bolt hole. This stopped the leak. There
should be enough room between the tank and bowl to accomodate the extra
washer and nut. I don't know why Crane didn't provide the extra parts as
everything I read showed this way of installing a tank.
So many people install the tank incorrectly, and a lot of them get broken.
Properly installed, with bolts and flapper and fill valve in place in the
tank, the tank should be able to be picked up with a load of water in it and
Problem comes when people try to snug tank to commode to stop leaks.
I had a similar problem once. I was afraid to apply any more torque to the
tank-to-bowl bolts, so I removed them and started over. This time, I put
some plumbers putty under the rubber washers. After retightening the bolts,
I cleaned up the excess putty out from around the fasteners and
voila...problem solved. No more leaks.
This is probably not the accepted practice of addressing this problem, but
it did work for me.
I just went through the same thing last week. Here's the sequence of hardware
from the inside of the tank out: bolt, rubber washer, then push it through the
tank hole. On the outside of the tank, press in another rubber washer, followed
by a metal washer and then the nut. Slide the tank assembly onto the back of
the bowl assembly, slip on another metal washer, and finally a wing nut. That
should seal up the tank at rest.
When you actually operate the flusher, there is another possible leakage point:
the large tank to bowl gasket (roughly 3.5 inches in diameter). Mine didn't
leak until I flushed, then there was a very large deluge of water from between
the tank and the bowl. It turned out I needed a higher gasket than the one I
had bought at the borg (I got a "universal fit" for a Gerber toilet; didn't work
out well at all).
Some of the information you've gotten is bad. This comes from the
plumbing newsgroup. First of all, don't put a washer between the head of
the bolt and the rubber washer. The brass bolt head and brass washer isn't,
of course, a watertight seal.
Secondly, some toilets come with a second rubber washer for under the
tank, but most don't. It sounds like you installed it exactly right; leaks
just sometimes happen. First of all, does it leak constantly, or only when
you flush it? If it leakes constantly, and the water's coming from
somewhere between the tank and bowl, then it's either the bolts (and rubber
washers) or the flush valve (the big hole in the middle) or the tank might
have a hairline crack. Test the big nut that holds the flush valve to the
tank to make sure it's snug. The smartest thing to do is to just reassemble
it again. Maybe the second time's the charm. If the tank is cracked, you
might not be able to see it. One trick would be to color the water with
cleaner or food coloring to detect the location.
If it only leaks when you flush it, then it's the connection between the
spud gasket (that foam rubber thingy) and the bowl. Again, just reassemble
it. The second time's often the charm.
And lastly, if it's a plumbing question, just ask the plumbers instead of
the DIYers. It'll save a lot of time and protect you from misinformation.
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