I'm installing a new toilet on a basement floor. I lined up the
flange slots with the bowl holes and traced around the perimeter of
the toilet. When dry-fitted It slightly rocks on the concrete floor.
I can remove small amounts of the concrete with a Dremmel tool. Is
there an easier way than trial-and-error to determine the high points?
How is this usually done? I'm guessing that this rocking has to be
eliminated before I can proceed with the install? TIA
I'm sure there are a lot of ways to level it, but personally I'd cut a
gasket for it from a roll of sheet gasket material you can get at an
auto parts store. If the out of level is slight as you indicate it
should accommodate it. If there is really a high spot you will need to
knock it down and an angle grinder with a masonry wheel will be 10,000X
faster than a dremel.
On Mon, 13 Oct 2008 11:04:34 -0500, Pete C. wrote:
I would dry fit it leaving the wax ring off and a rag in the drain to keep
sewer gas out. Mount bowl and put wooden wedges under edge of bowl and
level the toilet. Put the nuts on the flange bolts finger tight. Get grout
and pack it around the base of the bowl and around wedges. Let grout dry
over night. Remove bowl, install wax ring, remove leveling wedges,
remove rag in drain, reinstall bowl. Bolt down and grout in holes left
where wedges were.
The grout forms a level base for the toilet.
To find the high spots use a straightedge on the floor and mark where it
hits. Another method uses old fashioned carbon paper, carbon side down on
the floor and lower the toilet and twist and jiggle it to leave marks on the
high spots. It will take several attempts to find all the high spots. Also
one can cover the entire toilet bottom with tape and lay some thinset mortar
on the floor. Press the toilet into the thinset, and clean up what squeezes
out. Let it set overnight before moving the toilet. Then do the final
install with the seal and bolts. The tape will prevent the thinset from
bonding the toilet permanently to the floor.
If I was looking to buy a house and I saw that somone had thinset/
mortar/grout under the toilet, I'd knock $1000 off the price of the
house or look at another house.
When buying a house a $1000.00 is nothing, unless you live somewhere real
cheap where it can make or break a deal. Read the original post, he is
installing a basement toilet on top or rough concrete. I wouldn't want that
either for myself. But, adding a layer of thinset under the toilet and
cleaning up the edges would not look any worse than any other part of the
concrete floor. The trick is to avoid bonding the toilet to the floor and
doing a neat cleanup around the toilet. If you do that you would never know
there was a thin leveling layer of thinset under the toilet.
re: would not look any worse than any other part of the concrete
It sounds like you are assuming that the floor will be left
unfinished, not something I am able to gleen from the OP.
When I was installing a toilet on a concrete slab, I found that it
rocked. I used enough leveling compound to bring up the low spots and
then feathered the edges out way from the toilet. A sheet of linoleum,
extended under the toilet, covers all...
Set the toilet down, draw a line around the base. Remove the toilet and
tile around the drain and extend beyond the edge of the base and level
the tiles by taping them. After it's dry, put on the wax ring and toilet
and bolt it down. Later on you can tile the rest of the floor.
On Mon, 13 Oct 2008 16:46:20 -0400, Blattus Slafaly
I want to leave the floor as is--concrete sealed with sealed epoxy for
easy cleaning. The floor is smooth, but there is a floor crack
(1/8" wide) running right through the middle of the PVC toilet drain,
causing the unevenness. I tried temporarily leveling the toilet with
a roof shingle near the rear of the base (that worked). I'm leaning
toward the toilet shims (if I can find these) since I don't have an
easy way to grind the floor level.
An angle grinder can be such an excellent tool for so many things.
I once had a similar situation, I used a cheap lipstick from the
store on the bottom, then ground down the high spots that were
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