I recently just finished tiling our kitchen backsplash and was very
pleased with the results. So now I figure that it would be a good time
to replace the outdated kitchen floor with some new tile. So yesterday
I started ripping up the linoleum floor and was very pleased that the
sub-floor was in excellent condition. The linoleum was only glued down
on the edges, so it came up very easy except for one section. In one
of the corners the glue pulled up a little bit off the top layer off
the plywood. Now what can I use to smooth out this section? Would
spackle or the tile adhesive work?
I just want to make sure that the floor is as smooth and level as
possible before I start laying tile.
How thick is your subfloor? You will need to screw down your subfloor with
flooring screws at 4-6inch intervals first to make sure that there is no
flex or movement in the subfloor beneath the tiles, or the tiles or grout
will crack. There are some good websites for DIY ceramic tile that go into
details, just google to finde them.
Depending how bad the damage to the edges, it may not matter. The mortar
will fill the bad spots and actually adhere better, so long as there is
enough wood there to keep the tile level. With larger tile, it may not
need to be patched. However, make sure you do have enough thickness there
I checked the floor throughout and did not notice any flexing. (they
already had driven in screws every 6 inches and spackled on top of
them. I believe it is thicker than the 1 1/8 inch requirements, but
I'll take another measurement tonight to be sure.
One more question: How much harder are the thinsets to work with over
the pre-mixed adhesives? This is my first tile floor job, so I would
like to keep it as simple as possible. But of course I want to make
sure it will last.
On 28 Sep 2006 06:20:21 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If you are going to replace the linoleum floor with ceramic tile, the
plywood sub floor WILL NOT provide the needed foundation for the tile.
you will have a great deal of grief keeping any grout (as GoHabsGo
mentioned) in place, and you will have problems with tiles cracking.
What you need to do is lay down a layer of tile backer-board, to
provide the needed stability for your tile floor. Look in the local
Home improvement or book store for a book on laying tile. Basically
you set the backer board in thin-set, then using special decking
screws you fasten the backer board to your existing sub floor. once
this is done, you spread thin-set a section at a time, and lay the
This sounds like a lot more work, but if you don't do it, you will
probably HATE your new tile floor...
Hope this helps
Yes, I was told the subfloor needs to be at least 1-1/4" thick
(which happens to be 3/4" + 1/2" backer). The tile in our foyer
was put on directly the 3/4" ply and the grout and tiles were
popping up everywhere.
Before that, screw the subfloor to the joists every 6" or so. I
also planned it so the joints in the backer board were on top of
the joists, at least in the direction the joists ran. Also so the
joints in the backer didn't coincide with the subfloor joints.
That may have been overkill but it worked out without additional
A CAD program (I used A9CAD - freeware) helps with layout. I put
each item (room outline, joists, subfloor, backer, tile) on
separate "levels" so I could look at those I needed for each phase.
It worked out quite well, once I figured out how to draw. ;-)
Putting down the backer isn't all *that* much more work than the
tile. I agree, it's got to be done.
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