Pilot light switches are lit when the circuit is on, and illuminated
switches are lit when the circuit is off. They make 3 way pilot light
switches, but you'd need to check how the circuit is wired to determine if
one will work in the desired location. Here is a link to one type of pilot
light 3 way:
Sure enough. At the very end of a long list of features it says
"Grounding terminal is standard." but it doesnt' say a ground is
required for the light to go on. And it doesn't say you don't need
one either. And it doesn't say antyying about how the circuit must be
wired. I woudln't know whether to buy this one or not. OTOH, it says
flat out "Lighted when switch is ON." Would they say that if it
depended on the circuit? I hope not.
You missed the last line on the spec sheet -"Strap nickel-plated
steel with integral ground. "
The ground is required for the pilot to work.
Wire it as a standard 3 way and you should be fine - I was not aware
Pass & Seymour was marketing them - not a common hardware
store/big-box item - and not even on the shelf at our local electrical
Based on my experince installing light 3 ways at the bottom & top of
Both are lit when the controlled light is off
both are unlit when the controlled light is on
These were just regular old lighted 3-ways from Home Depot (Leviton
Available in lots of place; prices range from $10 to $20
I would suggested just getting one and install it in the location
On Saturday, July 3, 2010 at 12:22:13 AM UTC-4, Jan Philips wrote:
This topic came up again, and a Search on this topic brought up this old th
I could not find a 3-way switch (current sensing) that did not require a pi
lot light wire for installation at the feed/hot (master) switch. Easy enoug
h at the load/slave switch, but the extra wire for a pilot light is not sta
ndardly run, so if you are doing a retrofit, the standard lit when on switc
hes (eg Leviton 56-38-2W) won't work. I found a solution that requires a bi
t of tinkering, CR Magnetics (model CR 2250) uses a current sensing transfo
rmer with self powered LED. For the trigger current based on your load, jus
t add wraps of the hot through the hole and around the transformer. drill a
1/4" hole in your cover plate, and snap in the LED. Add conductor as neede
d for the wraps, and wire nut to the feed. Note that the LED saturates at t
he trigger current, and will take up to 20 amps AC being read, so there is
no problem if you set for LED current, and incandescents are later put in.
This solution will work with any switch configuration (3-Way, 4-Way). For s
ingle pole, standard pilot light switches are the easy solution (eg Leviton
5628-(color)). The CR 2258 is .32" thick, and so can be fitted in the J-Bo
x behind the switch.
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