I'm new to two-stroke gas-powered equipment having owned the following
California-emissions models for only six months and I'd like to ask one
question of each:
1. Craftsman 18" two-stroke chain saw
2. Echo 20" two-stroke hedge trimmer
3. Yardman two-stroke vacuum/blower
Craftsman 18" chain saw:
Is it "normal" for a chain saw to take up to 30 or so pulls before the darn
thing starts and stays running?
Echo HC150 Hedge trimmer:
Is it "normal" for the sliding blades to bind every hour or so,
necessitating loosening of the bolts spaced every six inches or so?
Is it "normal" for the blower to basically be almost useless and for the
vacuum to get clogged constantly (on leaves & twigs mostly) such that,
after twenty minutes, you have to spend a half hour cleaning out the
I ask because:
a) I'd expect a chain saw to start like the Honda pressure washer does ...
one pull and on it goes, not 30 pulls.
b) I'm not sure what's happening with the hedge trimmer; why are the nuts
tightening up in use? Is that what happens with hedge trimmers?
c) Basically, the vacuum/blower/mulcher is basically useless. I'm not sure
why anyone buys these. I had to go out and buy the Echo PB-500HC
(CÊlifornia) backpack blower just to get a decent blower but now I need a
decent vacuum and don't know what to get.
These are all lessons learned (that I wish I knew before I bought) ... do
you have similar experiences or did I just buy the wrong tools?
On Tue, 04 May 2010 02:13:18 -0500, Mike Paulsen wrote:
The hedgetrimmer is only a few months old and I have done zero maintenance
on it (other than to loosen those locknuts).
I did take the bottom plate apart (six torx screws) and noticed it was
filled to the brim with grease and had a little rotating gear but there
didn't seem to be anything to do there so I closed it back up.
I don't see much else other than to repack the grease in this hedgetrimmer
maintenance page ...
Other than the "clean and check" stuff ... what is in that maintenance list
which will make the blade lock nuts freeze up?
On Tue, 4 May 2010 07:50:52 +0000 (UTC), Elmo wrote:
Nothing here either, other than replacing the gear-box oil (which isn't my
problem here) ...
That article even says to TIGHTEN the lock nuts (not loosen them).
Now I'm even more confused. Why would the lock nuts freeze up constantly?
It may be a good idea to follow the manual for the machine you own,
rather than a generic page by the small engine guy.
If you think that the locknuts are not holding, try replacing them. They
don't last forever.
On May 4, 2:10ï¿½am, Elmo <dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
It is not normal to pull 30 times to get a 2 stroke to run smoothly
(assuming there are no other mechanical defects).
If you have to pull more than a few, you are using the wrong
technique. The air fuel mixure to get one running is very touchy. You
are either using the primer bulb too much, or not enough, or leaving
the choke on too long or not long enough, or mixing the gas/oil in the
If your air filter is dirty, that will cause a "rich" condition and
poor running. Spark plugs can become fouled with not only oil, but
I would suggest you change the spark plug. When you remove the old
one, pull a couple times to get any unused gas out of the crankcase
and cylinder, then put in the new one. Then try to start using the
On May 4, 1:10 am, Elmo <dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
I had an echo trimmer, great machine, are you saying the bolts
tighten by themselves and you need to loosen them? Mine were locknuts
and never tightened, after years they loosened a bit. Do you oil the
bar before each use, but that shouldnt matter why dont you take it
back and contact Echo, that is the best tool made. You are supposed to
not have them tight so it can bind but loose, not real loose so the
bolts wobble and the blades flop, and the locknuts should be very hard
to turn and have alot of resistance, maybe the locknut is loose and
worn or defective, replacing the bolt and nut would be easy but
covered under warranty by a reputable dealer, what does the dealer
say. I spray oil the blades before each use to keep them from
30 pulls to start something means you are doing something wrong or
maybe no fuel from an air leak, try tightening all bolts relating to
fuel delivery, Manifold, carburator, fuel lines etc, anything loose
might enter air. Next time remove the plug after a few tries if its
wet you are flooding it and need to reduce fuel, test the spark color
and strength by removing the plug, grounding it and it should be
strong and blue.
I only use a blower to blow so I could understand a certain type of
debris clogging it or things that are damp, maybe you are sucking up
damp dirt as its designed for dry leaves.
On May 3, 11:10 pm, Elmo <dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Saws (and most other 2-strokes) starting from cold: Full choke (or
push the buld the number of recommended times). 2 to 4 pulls and hear
it 'pop', i.e, fire. Choke off and 1 or 2 pulls should have it
What you may be doing:
1. Leaving fuel in it when putting it away. That is a no-no and
gauranteed it will cause problems.
2. Leavign choke on too long (or giving it too many strokes on the
Heh! The MS361 is a professional grade saw and, when first brought
out, was famous for hard starting. The problem was 'one pull past
'pop' with choke on would flood it. The "pop" was _not_ very
noticeable. Took me several 'won't start' instances with mine when I
first got it before I learned to hear the indication.
That 361 is one wonderful saw and worth the price.
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