Three Light Tester Shows Open Ground for Outlets in Main Living Spaces

As we use more and more devices in our homes, we need more receptacles.

I know, not you, but some of us. ;-)

I've got a bunch of these "receptacle extenders" scattered about.

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e.g. The duplex behind my new power recliner wasn't going to cut it anymore. The recliner, the lamp, convenient chargers for my phone and iPad, the vacuum, are all looking for power. I use the kind that screw into the receptacle so it's easy to remove plugs when needed.

The guest room where we sleep at my daughter's house now has one of these on the floor on each side of the bed. I got tired of climbing under the bed upon arrival and then again before we leave.

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Reply to
Marilyn Manson
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After studying the posts here and other commentary on the net, I agree I am being too picky and need to ease up yada on the point if I find a house where everything is great except that it has an ungrounded electrical system.

Thanks also now to Angelica, Clare and Marilyn.

Reply to
Elle N

Read for content "I don't use the 12' rule as a guide, only a minimum". One of my friends asked if I was putting a line of pinball machines along one of my walls because I had so many receptacles but the incremental cost for another one is about $4 For example I have a quad on both sides of the beds instead of the usual one behind it. The kitchen has quads instead of the normal duplex with 3 small appliance circuits instead of 2. They still get filled up pretty fast.

I have a few of those extenders with USB and a dual USB/5-15 duplex receptacle in the cluster at the end of the peninsula where hand held devices seem to land. Outside you are never more than 40' from power and water. Most places are less than 25. When I had the yard torn up for the pool I buried a lot of pipe and about a half mile of THHN.

Reply to
gfretwell

Now many recepticals get used up fast. If I were wiring a new house for me, I would make very place a quad instead of the more normal duplex. I need about 6 for just the computer desk. TV sets often need several. One for the set, cable/Direct TV , disc player, maybe a game set for some with children. Even the table where the wife watches TV needs a lot. Lamp, telephone power cube, caller ID, heating pad, and picture display.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

My joke was related to your earlier comment that your mobile phone usually sits on a counter, powered off. ;-) I use my phone so much that I typically need a charger wherever I sit and a spare battery when I go out for a walk. (It's actually better now that I got new phone. My old phone wouldn't last 2 hours sitting idle.)

Same same. In a older thread Trader (sarcastically) asked me if I was in the habit of pulling new circuits and installing receptacles just to eliminate the use of extension cords and my answer was essentially a "Yes". Why not have power where you want it instead of having to get it there when needed? The convenience far outweighs the relatively small amount of work required.

Reply to
Marilyn Manson

The condo my FIL bought doesn't have near enough outlets for his "nest" so I got him some of these. (6 receptacles and 2 USB that plugs into a duplex). tinyurl.com/3pdrkxmy I also gave him a few that just swivel for behind those cabinets we were talking about.

Reply to
gfretwell

Certainly true if it was easy. On my FILs bathroom remodel I ended up with an extra 20a circuit from the jet tub we pulled out so I added another counter top receptacle, one on the opposite wall, one for a towel warmer and one that landed in a closet in the hall. He has his drill charger plugged into it and a GFCI receptacle for running a cord outside if we need it since it is near the door. Yeah I know, a violation of the "bathroom only" circuit rule but since the existing are on with the bedroom that rule was shot to hell anyway. All he plugs in there is his tooth brush charger and a razor anyway. He has no use for a hair dryer ;-)

This is type II construction (nothing combustible in the wall) so everything needed to be in metal but I know how to bend pipe. I could also repurpose pipe in the wall. I managed to do it without destroying any drywall we already hadn't ripped out.

Reply to
gfretwell

Working in a live service panel is a place where paranoia is an asset.

There will always be a panel service disconnect (unless you have a separate service disconnect) but the supply wires connected to the service breaker are always hot and the lugs are often not protected. One option is cutting the meter seal and removing the utility meter. I did that fairly often as an electrician but always called the utility meter department after. Should check what your utility thinks - would be nice if they gave you a plastic disc to replace the meter and close the opening. Electrocution is one hazard. But there is likely 5,000 -

10,000A available for a short circuit, which can melt screwdrivers, which may not be good for you.

The National Electrical Code is only in effect if adopted by whatever the local authority is, and may be adopted with modifications. Some places have no electrical code.

The local jurisdiction may require work to be done by licensed electricians, may allow homeowners to do work on their houses, may be looser.

I think you can compact the wires with a hammer if it an "electrician's hammer".

AFCI receptacles also to be "readily accessible" (2017).

Expanding on a previous thread -- Starting 2017, if the NEC requires the following protected receptacles, any replacement receptacle must have that protection: child proof (easy to provide) corrosion resistance (outside, easy to provide) GFCI (receptacle or upstream protection) AFCI (receptacle or upstream protection) Many residential receptacles require GFCI + AFCI + child proof. (Any devices available?) IMHO this requirement is excessive, but I am confident everyone here follows it.

If you are modifying an existing circuit that requires AFCI protection requirements are more extensive.

Was any justifying research provided to the NEC as it added increasing AFCI protection?

Reply to
bud--

You ain't seen nothin yet. If they don't lose some of the stuff in the draft, all load side circuits may need AFCI in the 23.

I haven't been glued to it but I have looked at some of the proposals. They were from the usual (manufacturer) suspects and now it seems to be leaning toward "we have come this far ... let's go all the way ... for the children ... blah blah" type language. If you go back through the code changes over years past you see specifications, procedures, new tables and rules on wiring changing. Now it seems half of the changes are new products you need to use.

Reply to
gfretwell

You're right. I was thinking of the typical GFCI, not the typical GFCI installed to protect an entire circuit run. Typically they are by the kitchen counter, bathroom sink, etc. But if you want to protect a whole circuit, you're right, it might or might not be in an easy location.

Reply to
trader_4

I remember many years ago watching the Canadian TV show where that Holmes contractor guy goes to fix people's screwed up houses. They showed a Canadian electrical panel where there was a separate shield over the hot part at the top. I thought that was a very good, idea, cheap to do and wondered why all new panels here don't have it. Or maybe they do now? IDK.

Reply to
trader_4

I have found that the problem with the types that don't mount with a screw take 2 hands to operate. I've forgotten and grabbed a plug causing the entire extender to come out, shutting down everything else that was plugged in.

I like the ones where you remove the receptacle plate and screw the extender in tight. Everything is nice and solid like (most) basic receptacles.

Reply to
Marilyn Manson

Not the same thing, but when I installed the interlock on my panel for the generator, one PITA impact was that you can't remove the cover without shutting off the main.

It doesn't provide "hot top" protection like the shield you mentioned, but the rest of the panel (and the house, thus PITA) is dead.

A totally different panel question:

I've seen some panel covers that have 2 parts. The inner part, with the cut outs for the breakers, is "spring mounted" to the part with the door and mounting flanges. You have to fit the cut outs over the breakers and then compress the springs to get the cover screws to reach the box.

What's up with the springs?

Reply to
Marilyn Manson

I guess there's a balance of sorts between calling something "easy" at install time vs. the long term inconvenience of *not* taking the trouble to get it done.

When I built my deck 30+ years ago, I put a receptacle on the house wall. That was a no brainer. I also put a cable TV jack next to it so that I could watch football games on a little 13" TV.

My deck is about 8' off the ground. I eventually tapped into that receptacle and jack and extended both, adding a receptacle and jack under the front lip of the deck so I not only have ground level power for other things, but so I can also use the TV down in the yard without having to run extension cords/cables from the top of the deck.

Years later, when I built my shed, which is about 20' from the deck, I dug a trench and pulled both power and a TV cable to the shed. I mounted a receptacle and cable jack under the eave of the shed (out of the weather). I still have that same 13" TV, now mounted to a old end table, that I pull out of the shed and hook up to watch the games while I'm raking leaves or doing other backyard stuff.

Was any of that "easy"? That's relative. Has the extra work provided immeasurable convenience and enjoyment over the past few decades? Without a doubt.

Reply to
Marilyn Manson

Never saw it explained, but I think 'part' of Canada requires enclosure of the top of the panel where the service conductors and their connections are. The result seems to be that branch circuit wiring can't go through the top of the panel, and must enter on the side. As a result many panels are installed on their sides so branch circuits go down into the side of a panel. This is a code violation in the NEC - if a breaker operates vertically up must be "on".

Seems like service wire lugs could be protected.

Reply to
bud--

An outside receptacle at grade front and rear of the house has been in the code for a couple decades. Bud may remember when but I am thinking

96 or 99. TV is not mentioned tho. These days WiFi might do that for you.
Reply to
gfretwell

I have heard it explained that the NEC is not there to protect unqualified people inside enclosures beyond the dead front cover. Although this is not directly on point it shows the attitude of NFPA

90.1 Purpose. (A) Practical Safeguarding. The purpose of this Code is the practical safeguarding of persons and property from hazards arising from the use of electricity. This Code is not intended as a design specification or an instruction manual for untrained persons
Reply to
gfretwell

But my house was built way before that, so I assume I was grandfathered. When I moved in, the only receptacle outside the house itself was a single non-GFCI duplex in the attached garage. That receptacle was on an "interior" circuit. No exterior receptacles at all.

I think I'm up to 7 GFCI protected duplexes in the garage on 2 separate circuits and

6 GFCI protected exterior receptacles, again on 2 separate circuits.

I've yet to find a solid, reliable way to stream NFL games. My sons both live far from me and are forced to stream our favorite team. They've sent me links that work "most of the time" and "when it's not a big game that everyone is watching", but usually there is a lot of buffering, delays, etc. It sucks that we can't text about the plays as they happen because they are always behind me in the action.

We all have the NFL app, but it won't let you cast the games to a smart TV.

My workshop TV and the exterior jacks are hooked up to the cable box for the basement TV. There are days when I've got the games on 5 TV's at once so I can move about the place, inside and out, getting stuff done without missing anything. ;-)

SWMBO is not as big a fan as I, but she kinda likes me so she puts up with my Sunday (and sometimes Monday and Thursday) routine.

Reply to
Marilyn Manson

My Tivo would do it as long as the HDMI from the cable went to it. A mini will let you see anything you can see on the host unit. You can use the WiFi mini to host from what I read but I haven't used it. I have wire everywhere.

Reply to
gfretwell

Yep, I have wire everywhere too, so I'm good. Sure, the 13" TV with the VCR is beat up, but it works. I'm not planning on buying a flat screen to leave out in the shed any time soon. ;-)

This is the same 13" unit that I used to mount in my conversion van when I took the kids on long trips. At the start they used to just watch videos using the built in VCR. Then my son got some type of game console and used to bring that along too.

When we'd tailgate at football games, I'd bring the TV and we'd watch the other games before (or after) going into the stadium. Of course, OTA TV was the norm back then. That little Magnavox has been a workhouse for 30+ years.

Reply to
Marilyn Manson

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