OK, I'm stumped...
JD 112H lawn tractor (nearly ancient)
Symptom is no voltage in ignition system when turn key to "on/start".
Have had issue on occasion w/ safety interlock on tranny, but that ain't
the problem this time; have tested continuity from switch connection
thru both safety contacts (transmission and blade) to connection at
solenoid and is good. Plus, when one of them fails to make contact,
won't crank but does get voltage to generator charge light; not getting
that far now.
Question -- is way to test if solenoid isn't operating might be issue?
Service manuals aren't online but here's a link to the parts diagram for
the wiring harness that is a fairly complete wiring layout.
I scanned the wiring diagram I have; don't know how good it'll be but
there's a copy posted here...
Any troubleshooting help/suggestions appreciated...
Knowing the engine type and model would help. Anyway, you should have
one wire coming from the magneto. This is nothing more than a kill
switch. Disconnect it. After disconnecting it, make sure it isn't
touching any metal. Then jump the solenoids 2 big wire lugs. This will
make the engine turn over and start (assuming there isn't other
issues). BUT! in order to stop it, you must ground that wire to the
I forgot to add...............if it starts after doing what I said,
you either have a bad ignition switch, bad solenoid, or a wiring/fuse
issue. I can't tell you which unless I know what kind of solenoid you,
then I could tell you how to test the solenoid.
Well, what a combination of coincidental stuff, particularly as happened
since last used at which time had no problems!!!
First off, rebuilt tranny early this spring and while had it apart took
the opportunity to clean up longterm effects of battery spills.
Apparently did not get the nut holding the jumper from the battery side
of the solenoid to the 'bat' terminal on the regulator tight so the
apparently the nut came off while it was running the last time and
simply contacting the stud kept it running while it was. When changed
out the battery (the old one had gotten to where it was no longer
holding charge) apparently I knocked it off completely--hence the "no
voltage" symptom. Given the location deep down under the battery cage
and fuel tank, it wasn't simple to see so missed it wasn't connected
early on. Anyway, one would think that replacing that would fix all,
wouldn't one? Well, .... :(
Did get ignition light, no kick. Back track, discover bad connection at
switch isn't making contact all the time. Clean contacts, test, all's well.
Put all back together (had to take tank, battery holder, etc., off to
get to switch contacts to check and clean them) and poof!!! no kick again.
Now, trace back to another dirty contact in the safety circuit that
while pulling on the wiring harness to fix the switch contacts caused to
now show up...
Pull apart again to get to it; retest...bingo!
This time, _FINALLY_ it cranks and runs...
Anyway, thanks for the input...
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