and applying heat to the fitting, with the pipe inside it, heats them both.
For crying out loud, clare, you don't have to heat the whole damn pipe, just
enough of it to bond the
You're wasting time and gas. Clean and flux everything, assemble the joint, and
apply heat to the
fitting *only*. After a few seconds, touch the solder to the *pipe* 180 degrees
away from the flame.
When it's at melting temp, the solder flows into the joint smoothly, filling the
joing completely, without
overheated fittings or burnt flux -- in about HALF the time it takes doing it
There is absolutely no need to heat the pipe first, then the fitting.
I've had best success with touching the solder to the side away from the
flame, from the beginning. The correct temperature is reached, the solder
flows. If the heat is too hot, the flux dries off, and gives a bad joint.
The only way to know when the correct moment is by either years of
experience, or touching the solder from the very start.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
The joint should be hot enough so that the solder melts
easily when you touch it to the joint. Get the joint hot,
then touch the solder to it. If it doesn't melt, take the solder
away and continue heating.
If you can't do it, then either you have a torch that is too
small, isn't turned on enough, or is defective for some
When using lead free solder on copper water pipe, I've found the paste
flux that contains powdered lead free solder the best thing to use. I
get a good joint every time. You can buy small containers of Oatey #95
lead free tinning flux at Lowe's and Home Depot.
In addition to the other good advice
You may be melting the solder with the torch. The pipe needs to be hot
enough to melt the solder [torch can help].
It is also possible to heat the joint too hot and screw up the flux.
(Not likely what is happening.)
On Mon, 6 Feb 2012 14:33:26 -0800 (PST), Michael B
The stuff works - and it works well IF you are meticulous with the
preparation. A fingerprint on the joint can cause a leak that doesn't
show up for a day or two.
Don't ask how I know. I ended up taking it apart and cleaning it all
up and soldering it. Never had a solder joint leak on me.
Where I can't solder because of flamible materials or no access I use
The house I lived in for 15 years had a lead main water line, as did
hundreds of other houses built at that time in the late 40s. Millions
of homes have copper and lead soldered joints. I don't know of
anyone that was affected.
I drink water every day at work. The copper was installed in the 50's
I bet that just dashed your hopes and dreams.
Lead poisoning (also known as plumbism, colica Pictonum, saturnism,
Devon colic, or painter's colic) is a medical condition caused by
increased levels of the heavy metal lead in the body. Lead interferes
with a variety of body processes and is toxic to many organs and tissues
including the heart, bones, intestines, kidneys, and reproductive and
nervous systems. It interferes with the development of the nervous
system and is therefore particularly toxic to children, causing
potentially permanent learning and behavior disorders. Symptoms include
abdominal pain, confusion, headache, anemia, irritability, and in severe
cases seizures, coma, and death.
Many decades ago, in the 1950's & 60s my father had lead poisoning. He
worked for the National Lead Company long before OSHA regulations were
A couple of solder joints is not going to do all of that. There is
very little actual exposure in a properly made joint.
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