Tinning Flux vs. regular flux for sweating copper

I like the tinning flux...it flashes silver when the joint reaches temperature so it helps me not overheat the joint. Other than that, I don't notice much difference.

Personally, I prefer plumber's cloth to steel wool by far. And I don't try to use a single piece for more than a few joints. It cuts better when fresh, and it's cheap.

Other tips? Clean, clean, clean. After cleaning the pipe with plumber's cloth or the fitting with an inside brush, I give it a quick wipe with a clean rag to remove the grit and loosened grime. Then I flux imediately. I don't like to leave cleaned pieces sitting around for a long time before sweating them. I also like to clean the end of the fitting. I think it helps the solder form a smooth fillet.

If you have a lot of fittings to clean, cut the handle off a fitting brush and chuck it in a drill.

Take the time to remove the melted flux with a damp rag after the joints cool. And a piece of scotchbrite pad cleans the joint up nice after the wet rag.

Rectorseal's good stuff. Since I hate leaks, I use teflon tape AND rectorseal on threaded joints. Tape first, then the dope. Haven't had one leak in a very long time with that combo. But if you have a big job, get over your tendency to go with threaded versions and adaptors when sweat versions are available. It will save you a lot of pieces and a lot of joints.

Good luck with your project.

Paul

Good advice. Will check out plumber's cloth today. Esp. like the observation on cleaning the ends of fittings. I might get real stupid and touch them on a belt sander! Scotchbrite after sweating??? Beyond my psychological capacity! :)

I'll try to minimize adapters, to where I think I might change my mind about something or other later--easier to undo a threaded cap than sweat, etc. But indeed, straight sweating would save time.

I have put fitting brushes in a drill, but never used them on fittings!! Another good idea.

Greatly appreciate the >

I have bought some wire cleaning brushes with the hexagon screwdriver base on them so they can fit the screwdriver fittings, etc. Better than trying to chuck a twisted piece of wire from a cut off handle -- cheaper too.

Use the old 50/50 tin/lead mix instead of the new lead free stuff. Make sure the pipe and fitting are both clean and bright.

I agree with Paul totally but he mentioned something you might not know what he was talking about, I didnt' at first. They make copper connectors with the solder already in them. Since I'm not a pro I had much better luck with those type. I added a little bit more solder even though you probably don't have to, but none of those leaked for me.

Paul Frankl>

Oh, good idea. That way when you sell your house the PC police can force you to replumb the entire house when you've been found to have "non-conforming" plumbing. No, I don't think there is anything wrong with Pb Plumbing, but it's simply not done anymore.

I was wondering where to find these copper with solder in them. I've looked around and can not locate them. Thanks.

on threaded joints. Tape first, then the dope. Haven't had one leak in a very long time with that combo.

I work work with industrial and marine machinery, regularly encounter substandard NPT threads from assorted countries. When this occurs: Wrap with teflon tape in an overlapping spiral, but only once, then a coat of teflon paste sealant. Smooth it with your finger, then another layer of teflon tape. Avoid the tendency to apply excessive layers of teflon tape, Assuming you do not want teflon shreds in whatever you are working on, leave one or two leading threads without any teflon tape. The teflon paste is available in small tubes at ACE HDWE or for larger tubes go to a Loctite distributor. This method has also been very successful with PVC threaded NPT fittings for my home sprinkler system.