Some years ago I bought a bunch of Curtis strips on sale. Also have RF
filtering which I like.
I still keep planning on grounding my side porch, which has an
aluminum roof, and iron pillars and railing, all connected together.
It is tied to the Ac ground via a metal lamp box. I will remember to
get that ground rod!!!
I don't really know if Thats code, but I know it's a problem.
You can protect equipment from lightning strikes. I worked for a
corporation that sold business machines internationally in SW Florida.
Our customers were not going to accept the answer that they had to
unplug all of their mainframes, PCs, cash registers and ATMs every
afternoon for 6 months of the year. We got pretty good at mitigating
We went from a couple calls a day to one or 2 a year.
1. create a good ground electrode system
2. use point of entry protection on every wire that comes into the
building, bonded to that ground electrode system, preferably at the
3 put Ferrite beads on all of your cables
4 use point of use protectors on all of your equipment that picks up
every wire going into that equipment bonded to the grounding
In extreme cases you also may need a bonding wire from the frame to
frame of interconnected equipment but this is usually when you are
dealing with very long distances, like the register out at the pool
bar in a hotel ... Again with ferrites on the signal cable.
I have had the mast that my weather station is on hit directly by
lightning and it did not take out the PC or the weather station.
Actually it was hit twice. The first time it fried both, then I did #3
and #4 and the second time all I had to do was reboot the PC.
You're forgetting at least one important spec: How long that suppression
current can be withstood by the device and what its expected duration might
be. There certainly are such surge supressors available but talking about
only one spec out of many, all variable, is sayiing absolutely nothing,
nada, zip. In addition to that, there is surge suppression in the xfmr out
on the pole so unless a strike hits very close to the bldg connection, it's
going to still benefit from that clamping action.
You guys all need to do some research of at least 101 calibre
The issue of how long that suppression current can be withstood is
rarely specd directly in the major whole house surge suppressor
data sheets that I have seen. It is spec'd indirectly as the amount
of energy in joules that it can handle. Typically they spec amps,
joules and clamping voltage. And as amps go up, so does the
joule rating. Which is not to say you won't see variation, but I
think it would be unusual to find a device rated at say 40K amps from
any of the major manufacturers that is woefully inadequate with
regard to the joule rating compared to other 40K devices from
other major manufacturers.
In other words, you are right there is more to it than amps, but
if you bought just on the amp spec from the major manufacturers
you would not be left with a totally inadequate surge protector.
Which means what? That we don;t need a surge protector?
That we need a smaller one?
Speak for yourself. Nothing you've brought up in this thread so far
is new to Bud, Tom or I.
Excuse me for hijacking the thread but this seem like a good place to
ask. Im using a Leviton 3 phase unit on my home which is wire for 240
single phase. I just wired it in to a 240 20 amp breaker in the panel
and left the wire for the third phase disconnected. Anything wrong
with doing this?
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