Have a hose bib that needs to be replaced. Problem is it's tight and I'm
afraid if I twist it too hard something on the other side of the slump block
wall will let go or break. The hose bib has a flange where the pipe screws
on and it's almost against the block. So what should I do?
I'm interperting your description as saying that the supply pipe screws
IN to the back of that flange, and you can verify that by peering behind
that flange and seeing some exposed threads.
I'd try this...
Shut off the water supply to it.
Remove the cap, handle and stem.
Heat it with a propane or Mapp gas torch while applying torque with a
pipe wrench placed over the body of the hose bib. The heat should help
break it free.
There's a chance that the threads I presumed you saw are not on a "pipe"
but are on a thread adaptor sweated to the end of a piece of copper
pipe. The heating may melt the solder and might just make that adaptor
come off along with the hose bib.
If that happens, don't sweat it, or rather DO sweat solder a new adaptor
onto the exposed end of the pipe and screw the new hose bib onto it.
Why are you asking that? You must know, you called it by its correct name.
I took the first sentence of his post literally, without thinking about
the fact that he might not be in the know enough to realize it likely
could be "fixable" with just a simple washer and/or stem packing
On reflection, you're probably more right than I was. We broke a high
temperature record today here in Boston, so the heat must have baked my
Repair the old one if at all possible. The only way to get it off without
possible damage in the wall is to cut it off in pieces. You may be ahead to
chisel away the block around the pipe to see if it is a threaded or soldered
connection. If soldered, just blow out the water and heat until the solder
melts. If there is a threaded iron pipe, heat and penetrating oil may help
but cutting it off is the only really safe way. You would have to be very
careful not to damage the threads. Since fairly extensive block work would
be required if something in the wall broke, it might be worthwhile to just
chisel away enough block to get a pipe wrench on the pipe to hold it while
you twist the bib off.
In cases like this, experience helps a lot in judging how much force to use.
You might want to seek help. I would be very leery about just trying to
unscrew it if it does not yield pretty easily.
Lots of luck, Don Young
Spray the fitting with penetrating oil. Then try. This can be
repeated. Channel lock adjustable pliers are your friend.
If you are afraid to break it then be very patient and gentl. If your
are capable of fixing it then sometimes it is easier and faster to
just cut the fitting out with the sawzall and replace.
For those that asked, it's definitely threaded. If I pull out on the bib and
look behind it I can see a tiny bit of the galvanized pipe and the rusty
thread. I can get it about 1/4" away from the wall. Not enough to get to the
pipe with something to hold it. I may try to grind a notch in the valve and
split it. The flange is going to be the hard part to get to and split. May
try to drill a row of small holes??
So whats wrong with the old faucet? Washers can be replaced, seats
reground in place, in minutes:) stem leaks easily fixable.
because its threaded on galvanized you will likely start a much larger
job, as that old pipe fail;s when disassembled, or sometime later.
how old is the galvanized, and do you have good water flow thru it?
Hopefully it goes into either a basement or crawl space. If so, try
to get acccess to the inside where you can get a pipe wrench on it.
In any case, before getting really physical, plan for the worst case
scenario - what are you going to do if it breaks?. Sometimes it is
best to just abandon it (if the bib itself cannot be repaired in-situ)
and run a new line (BTDT).
The pipe is in a slump block wall. It must come up from the slab inside the
block. Going to take the advice and try to rebuild it. Did it about two
years ago and it's leaking again. Right after I rebuilt it, it was marginal.
Hard to stop the drip. The seat is not replaceable, so I tried to cut it in
place. My seat tool may not be the best:)
Got it off. Used my propane torch, not the normal kind. One with a large
bottle and a regulator, hose and torch. Anyway got the valve hot and was
able to get behind the flange with a thin channel lock and hold the 1/2"
pipe. Used a short pipe wrench on the sill cock and with much effort it came
loose. Replaced it and all seems well. It had me worried. I'm sure now that
inside the house the pipe is copper. Was worried I'd break it or cause a
leak. So far no evidence I did. Keeping my fingers crossed:)
Thanks for the help,
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