On May 27, 7:56?pm, email@example.com wrote:
saw it on this old house, looked good. if water gets to anything
built of chip board rot is instant result.
but if your in a storm prone area, hurricanes or tornadoes a concrete
home is likely a far better alternative
basically withstand a 300 MPH wind, looks like a regular home, very
quiet and energy efficent, insulation buried in concrete
I like the ICF systems better myself, but both are good.
Check out www.integraspec.com www.polysteel.com You'll have a solid
house that can withstand hurricanes, minimal tornado damage, and saves a
bundle on energy.
SIPs save a lot more, once we discount lies about ICF dynamic R-values...
On a day with average exterior temp T, a 68 F concrete house with 2" R10
Styrofoam walls will lose or gain about |68-T|/R10 Btu/h. With min and max
temps Tmin and Tmax, a frame house in the same location with walls with
an equivalent R-value might lose (68-Tmin)/R all night and gain (Tmax-68)/R
all day, with an equivalent dynamic R-value of 5(Tmax-Tmin)/|68-T|.
Here is a list of US locations and dynamic R-values, based on NREL data:
location month Tmin T Tmax dynamic R-value
Philadelphia June 61.8 71.8 81.7 26.2
Phoenix, AZ April 55.3 69.9 84.5 76.8
Flagstaff July 50.5 66.3 81.9 92.3
Prescott June 49.9 67.2 84.5 216.3
Albuquerque September 55.2 68.6 81.9 222.5
San Diego October 60.9 67.7 74.6 228.3
Houston April 58.1 68.3 78.4 338.3
Ely, NV July 48.0 67.5 87.0 390.0
Colorado Springs August 55.2 68.3 81.3 435.0
Las Vegas October 54.3 68.3 82.1 463.3
Elkins, WV August 56.2 67.8 79.3 577.5
Bakersfield October 54.8 67.8 80.7 647.5
Rock Springs, WY July 52.8 68.0 83.1 infinite!
A customer of mine used that type of construction for parts of his house.
It has excellcent insulation qualities. He told me that he feels as though
he paid twice for the house because the interior had to be framed out to
allow room for the utilities to be installed.
inside the foam for all of your electrical, phone and cable needs.
(so you need an exact electrical plan). And since there is typically
no plumbing installed on the exterior walls, there should be no need
to frame around the panels.
On May 27, 6:56 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
The insulated panels I am looking into have 3 1/2" of polyurethane
foam insulation for the walls, and the roof panels are 5 1/2" thick
with 7/16" osb bonded to both sides. the r-value of the foam is
close to 7 per inch. So they say the walls are r-28 and the ceiling
panels are r-40. But since there is some framinig inside the foam for
window support, I would think that would affect the overall r-value of
the wall. I've read on numerous web sites of companies that make them
about how much strong they are compared to conventional stick framing,
and how you can save huge amounts on utilities, some claim
50-70%...But one of my big concerns is if they are going to stand the
test of time? Is there any concern that the bond between the foam and
the osb will ever seperate? What if you get termites in the foam?
Also, I read a report from the Dept. of Energy saying that people save
around 15% on utilities, which is a long way from 50-70% the makers of
the product claim. I would appreciate any futher comments/
On May 28, 8:01 am, email@example.com wrote:
I don't believe termites and foam are an issue. The OSB and water
would be a bad mix so maintenance of the exterior would be important.
But, then again, it's important for conventional housing as well.
Only some actual time/experience w/ these newer concepts will really
tell how well they hold up for the long haul so there's a little bit
of risk there, perhaps.
Of course there's some effect around windows and doors but if they're
well designed and air-tight they're as good or better as anything
going and unless you're going to do without, there's no alternative.
But, the overall R-factor for the entire wall/house isn't that of the
wall/roof material itself, certainly.
I'd look at the DOE report carefully and see that it is comparing
equivalent structures to what you're looking at. If it appears to be,
then I'd ask for more technical and detailed data from the
manufacturer to at least see if they have what would appear to be
rational explanations. Of course, one would expect claims from a
manufacturer to be at the high end of what could possibly be justified
while the DOE report may not even be a very similar construction...
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