Umm, some of us with storm windows don't have AC in the first place. I'm in
upstate NY and the storm windows came off 2 weeks ago. It was 94 F today,
and believe me, it was brutal. I don't have AC in the house, just lots of
trees, fans, and open windows, and it was about 83 F inside. Perfectly fine.
My workshop, however, is attic space over my garage, and I have an AC unit
in the only window. It was over 100 F all day up there, with the AC running
full. Very uncomfy.
On May 26, 3:13 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
re: "Why do you waste hours fumbling with the storms..."
Hours? How many windows do you think I have?
P.S. I don't have storms anymore.
re"... to save a few pennies on electricity during the summer cooling
errr...why not? Are you suggesting that I just throw the money out of
the window...wait, I can't...they're closed.
Remember: "A Benny shaved is a Benny urned"
Look it up.
Convenience. I look at it this way:
In the summer, the outside air is rarely more than 20 F hotter than
the inside air. Yes, I'm losing some, but I find it a tolerable
In the winter, the temperature is typically 40-50 F lower outside
than inside, and the winds are higher. I deploy the storms during
the winter both to save money and to decrease drafts in the house.
I'm just not a person to squeeze every penny until Lincoln squeals.
...and that all makes sense.
Still, all things considered, I'm much happier with the overall
convenience (and efficiency) of the replacement windows.
It's not only about the "up/down" issue. Toss in the tilt-in cleaning
feature, the fewer surfaces that need to be cleaned, the ease of
screen removal for cleaning, the overall look, the efficiency, the
huge reduction in future maintenance, etc.
Keep in mind what started this thread: the OP asked about *adding*
My suggestion was to go one step further, forgo the storms and replace
the windows for all of the reasons stated above.
Now, in my case, I needed to reglaze most of my drafty single pane
windows, repair a number of screens, recaulk the aluminum storms,
paint the trim, etc. etc. I don't know the OP's skillsets, but I saved
a ton of money by replacing the windows myself. While it may have been
more expensive, I'm sure it was no more work to replace them than to
try and bring the old ones up to snuff.
For my money, I got more convenience, better efficiency and a much
better looking house. I just think that the OP should consider all of
the factors involved before he writes the check for *adding* storm
Hell, 25 YO Andersens are just getting broken in. I know personally
several houses with 50 YO Andersens that are still in fine shape. If you
must replace, at least get a quality brand, not some damn vinyl windows.
Unless the frames are rotted, those Andersens should be good for another
20-30 years with a little tune-up and maybe some fresh weatherstripping
where needed. And unlike most window companies, Andersen does make
repair parts available, and even replacement sash kits, for their old
windows. Very backward-compatible.
The only disadvantage I see is that for a while in the spring and
fall, the storm windows will be in there when I would like to have my
windows open. Or there won't be storm windows when it is still or
already cold out. I have storm windows that can be opened and shut
from inside the house; they just slide in a channel like the regular
windows do in the next channel. But even then I have this problem,
just not as much.
So in the late fall, I close the storm windows and then it's a
beautiful day or night and I want them open again and I'm too lazy to
get out of bed. (I can open and shut the main window by lifting my
arms over my head, but not the storm windows.)
(If you have to install the windows from the outside, you're very very
unlikely to take them out or put them in more than once for a season
change. even more likely to have to do this when it's already cold
and uncomfortable, but otoh, it should only take a few minutes.)
In the spring. It gets warm, then it gets cold again but the storm
windows are open and the furnace runs more than it would if the storm
windows were shut.
The altenrative is reglazing with thermopane, if possible and if there
are no other leaks which would remain unplugged, or all new windows
where the storm and reg. window open and shut together. Maybe I
wasted money by not doing this when I first got here 27 years ago.
I'm not sure.
Of course not every window in the house has to be done the same way.
In one room, I pretty much don't open the windows, so there is no
season change issue.
Also, storm windows keep in the air conditioning also.
This post adds some detail to what I was talking about earlier.
It's those change of season periods, especially here in the northeast
where you might want screens during the day, but need the furnace at
night. Just this month we've had a high of 85 and a low of 34. Heck,
it snowed on Mother's Day!
During AC season there's many a day (and night) when we want the
screens, but certainly periods where the AC is desired. Running the AC
with the storms up is pretty inefficient.
As I said earlier, being able to open any window - regardless of the
obstruction - with one hand, is not only very convenient, it's also
an economical advantage.
Depends on how anal you want to get. I'm in the northeast also. Kitchen
window has the storm down from about the end of December to the beginning of
March. After that, some days we want to crack the window open while cooking.
Bathroom windows stay down longer, but they are the first two opened come
warmer weather. Some windows are never opened during the year so the storms
stay down. Yes, it probably does cost me an extra few bucks a year for
energy, but I'm willing to pay for convenience.
re: "Yes, it probably does cost me an extra few bucks a year for
energy, but I'm willing to pay for convenience."
As am I...and by replacing my leaky storms and single pane windows I
get all the convenience I want *plus* I save money on my energy
costs. Eventually my convenience will be free.
Anything better? Probably any replacement window will have a better
air seal, air infiltration can cost you as much in heat loss as single
pane glass looses. www.energystar.gov should have work sheets to show
you what energy savings different types of window afford and the
payback for you. A Blower door test done for about 300 will show you
air exchanges per day and where the leaks are. The best would be a
triple pane with Low E argon but double pane is common , You realy
cant do worse than old window frame technology and the new glasses
made save energy winter and summer. You might find work sheets at
major glass manufacturers also. Run numbers and see.
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