I just ordered a new carburator for my Honda lawn mower engine.
Since placing the order, I tried some Mechanic In A Bottle and it
improved the performance of my mower significantly. It's not 100%, but
if I hadn't already ordered the carb, I probably would wait a while.
Anyway, since the new one is on it's way, I'm going to change it, but
I don't see a need to throw out the old one just yet. I might just
keep it around as an emergency spare.
Should I choose to do that, what's the best way to clean it and store
it to keep "fresh" so if I ever need it (years from now?) it'll still
BTW - Plano Power equipment has a great website for outdoor power
equipment - especially parts for Honda engines and genrators.
You'd be better off just canceliing the order or trying to sell.
Stockpiling parts for a mower is not very smart. Just buy the part
when you need it.
If you really wish to keep a spare then keep the new one.
Yeah, that'd be my advice too. Stick a bit of card in there with a label
saying what it is, too, because if you're anything like me you'll end up
with shelves full of stuff like that and it's not always possible to
remember where it came from when you "find" it again in ten years'
For what it's worth I've never replaced one of those carbs on any of
my gas powered equipment. Simply cleaning it and replacing the
gaskets has always been enough. That yours improved with gas additive
suggests the same.
I've had to replace them on some equipment but it's generally after 20+
(to maybe 40 or more even) years. Old Zenith and the like will wear
around the throttle shaft so that air inleakage eventually becomes
intolerable and uncontrollable. There's no effective repair as they're
not bushed and unless one has suitable machine shop facilities to do so
oneself, the expense of paying somebody to do the custom bushing is more
than the new carb by quite a bit.
Unfortunately, many of these old guys are now out of production and
replacements aren't available so if I outlive the current versions it'll
be a harder route... :)
Anything new enough that it had a Honda engine wouldn't be a likely
candidate for needing a carb replacement yet I'd think... :)
Some fine fella in this group mentioned prioritizing their time. In
another forum dedicated to OPE, I asked if they knew of a site that
had step-by-step instructions for cleaning and tuning a Honda engine,
including the carb.
One long time member mentioned that for the $15 cost of a new carb
from Plano, it's hardly worth taking the old one apart and cleaning/
tuning it. Of all the things I'm pretty good at, small engines,
especially carburetors, isn't one of them.
I called Plano and they said their carbs are just bolt on and run.
When I said I'd like a blade, air cleaner and plug for the same mower,
they gave me a pretty good break off the on-line shipping cost,
essentially throwing in free shipping on the blade, by far the
heaviest item in the order.
So for the amount of time I'd spend cleaning and (trying to) tune the
old carb, I'll just toss the new one on and be done.
Any extra time I spend cleaning and storing the old one will basically
be play time.
How's that for some good old fashioned rationalization? ;-)
I think I have used them for a set of points for the Wisconsin engine in
the JLG manlift--oh, no, now I remember. JLG has an OEM-specific
version so the standard J4V parts didn't fit; had to go to a JLG
distributing dealer at very dear pricing... :(
Will say they were good in letting me return the ones that didn't fit,
though, so that was good... :)
Yeah, it's getting pretty bad on both the old B+S engines that I have,
which are around 25 years old now. They use tiny grub screws to hold the
throttle stop onto the shaft too, and there's no chance of getting those
out after so many years - removing the stop is the only way of removing
Maybe I'll motivate myself to cut the stop off one sometime (and make
myself a replacement) if I can plan a way of adding bushes to the carb
body (which I expect is what's worn; the shaft's probably not too bad)
It's pretty trivial to grind off the throttle plate screws then remove
them and replace. I've done that in trying to cobble up a fake bushing
w/ some shim stock and other halfbaked goes at it.
The trick is the machining for bushing in the carb body to accurately
bush the shaft. I've wondered if one of the JB Weld or similar products
would be hard enough but figured unlikely so haven't ever tried it. It
wouldn't be bad if one had a milling machine setup (or very, very good
drill press, even) but my press is ok for farm repair heavy stuff but
not up to the task for such precise work. The guy in town wants way
more than they're worth for setup charges.
Indeed, it is the carb body casting that wears; I've mic'ed the shaft on
a couple and they're barely discernible as to wear--it's all in hogging
out the body from the longterm vibration.
I've bushed other things myself. Usually you can find a sleeve that
fits the item or can be drilled out to fit the item. Then just drill
the body to fit the sleeve. On a carb I'd also wonder if you could
peen the body such that the hole was smaller again and then clean it
up to fit the shaft with a file. Another possibility would be cutting
a groove in the shaft and fitting an o-ring. Or attaching a thick
washer to the outside that matches the shaft.
I had a throttle shaft go on my $79 blower. I just put a bolt through
the hole. I usually ran it at full speed anyway :-)
The principle is simple, agreed.... :)
The issue I've had was that the toolset at hand is much more adapted to
stuff of the much heavier persuasion than a little single-cylinder carb
bowl since most work is farm equipment size. I wasn't set to try to
accurately align the carb for drilling out the bowl sides and keep
alignment to avoid potential for throttle to then bind if not quite true.
I kinda' like the idea of the exterior patch idea, that has some
possibilities. The one I last replaced was so far hogged out there
would be no hope of peening sufficient material to fill the gap, if I
could have kept it in there there was actually enough space I got a
chunk of shimstock around the shaft at one point--it help briefly, but
vibrated out after a couple uses.
On Wed, 25 May 2011 07:22:40 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote:
Nice ideas. I'd wondered about the 'washer trick' myself in the past -
that'd probably be the first thing I'd try as it should be realtively
easy; if the throttle stops weren't seized onto the shafts of the carbs
that I have, it's be a ten minute job to try it. Anything that reduces
the air leak will help, after all.
Hadn't thought of peening. As I said in my other post, the metal on these
carbs seem to be pretty soft, so there's a good chance that would be
O-ring - not sure there. I bet the holes wear oval due to the forces on
them, so maybe that would either be too tight or not seal nicely.
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