I will be constructing a simple 10' x 10' outside storage building in
my backyard this summer. A 4" concrete pad has already been poured,
and as I plan construction, I am considering exterior siding options.
I have read quite a bit about Hardiboard vertical siding material.
This product, which apparently comes in 4' x 8' sheets, is paintaile
and rot-resistant. However, I've also read that it is a bear to cut,
and dry-cutting produces some really *bad* silica dust that should be
So, my initial enthusiasm for Hardiboard has been tempered, and thus
I'm still considering other options. I would appreciate any
suggestions. I don't mind (and, in fact, would prefer) to paint the
exterior rather than rely on product color that may fade/vary over
time, as vinyl does.
The storage shed will be a pretty simple structure; wood-framed walls
on 16" centers w/ 1/2" plywood sheathing.
TIA for any ideas.
On 25 Apr 2007 09:04:22 -0700, intrepid firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
What weather and environmental conditions is it expected to
withstand? how long is it supposed to last? Is the
siding going to be structural, or will the wood framing provide
wracking resistance without the siding? Does it need to be pretty?
Vinal is final and very easy to work with. I put aluminum on mine to match
my house. VERY EXPENSIVE option
With vinal buy a double 4 or Dutch lap not the straight 8 stuff and buy the
heavy gauge. Install over osb board
Use the artificial composite trim It wont rot
Steel Doors for security
Spend a little more in the beginning and make it totally maintenance free
I put a old window frame on mine with mirror glass in it to give the
appearance of a window but it is still secure
I also installed a spickot on the outside from the sprinkler system main
line Alarm system also tied to house system
Four security light all tied together.
A double 2x8 across the header to allow the use of a come along for working
on the mower
Affordable options pretty much limit you to vinyl or the hardie product.
Cutting the hardie outside is no big deal. A simple dust mask and eye
protection is enough.
I would avoid lap siding and T-111. They just won't hold up long term from
the rain splatter. BTDT.
I agree with you Colbyt simply because people won't keep up the
maintenence on it. They really should put the low maintenance $ into it
But for those who have up front constraints and use it, keep it away from
the ground as far as possible. Prime it! Especially THE EDGES towards the
ground. PRIME the couple of feet up the back too. Don't use cheapo paint.
Another option is to run a 12" wide Hardiplank
on the bottom around the perimeter then start T111 above that.
There is a channel made to join horizontal separations but do not know if
this will work if both pcs are not T111. And it can be ugly.
More attactive way to join is use some billion year caulk (hmmm..wonder
if roofing cement would work?) in the joint prime and paint. Put a 1x4
trim board (primed front and back) over the joint but first bevel the top
edge along the lengh on a table saw like:
Before mounting over joint put some more billion year caulk (roofing
cement bad idea here) along the back of the top edge so it squishes out
Although you may have to make a few cuts with your circular
saw, you can rent or buy a shear made especially to cut hardie
panels and boards. Absolutely no dust, just long curlicues of
I haven't cut any hardipanel with a saw in years. I still cut
hardieplank with a chop saw, but I use the blade made for
cutting it and there is very little dust.
Here are some sources for the products I am talking about;
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
I built a 10x16 shed last year, I know what you're going through. I looked
at all the siding options too. I considered the 4x8 sheets of hardie board
also, but decided to pass. This siding was to be installed vertically, and
joining 2 pieces on the same stud is iffy. This is true because you'd have
to nail really close to the edge. ( this is the kiss of death for any cement
siding product) They recommended that the studs be doubled up where 2
pieces come together. In the end, I decided that was too much hassle.
I went with raw 5/8" T1-11 plywood siding, grooved 8" OC instead. This was
no picnic either. The siding was raw, so I primed it, both sides complete
on sawhorses before putting it up. (a major hassle) Then I had to paint it
once the building was done.
The building looks great, but 2 coats of primer on both sides of the sheet
and paint on the one side of the sheet was more work than I wanted to do.
(the white primered sheets look nice inside though) If I could do it again,
I'd sheet it with 7/16" OSB and side it with vinyl or Hardie Plank.
Other things to consider: I went with a Gambrel (Barn-Style) roof, so that
I could have a storage loft above. *Very* nice to have some extra room. I
also did not want to hassle with swinging doors so I put on a low-headroom
8x7 garage door instead. (I had 8' sidewalls) The garage door with
low-headroom kit was expensive, (300 bucks) but well worth it!
All kinds of great information, folks. Many thanks for sharing your
After reading the above, and doing some additional research, I think
I've come across still another alternative that I will likely pursue,
and that's SmartSide panel siding from LP. No silica component,
therefore no silica dust, and no special cutting tools or blades
required. It's also pre-primed like the Hardi stuff, and it's about $5
cheaper per 4' x 8' sheet...given the 10 sheets I'll need, that's $50
plus tax in my pocket.
As for some of the other questions; appearance-wise, it doesn't have
to be a showpiece, but it will be trimmed and painted a color roughly
similar to the brick on our home, and the trim painted white.
Construction, as noted, will be 2" x 4" studs on 16" centers, with
1/2" plywood sheathing, then the SmartSide panel atop that. Roof is a
simple 7-pitch gable style with a weathered-wood 25-year or better
shingle. I plan to build two simple swinging 2' x 6' doors for the
Have probably built this thing in my head 4,000 times, including
drawing of plans and creation of a cut schedule, and a template for
the roof commons (down to the birdsmouth), but the planning has
already helped me anticipate a few gotchas now rather than later. I'm
sure there are plenty to come....
Sounds like you got 'er all planned out. Planning is the key. It won't
too long to get it done. Since you've already got the cement, you're
After I poured the cement for mine, it took about 3 weekends to get it
finished. Putting on the
garage door and wiring inside took most of one of the weekends.
This isn't strictly tied to the original topic of my thread, but its
about the same building...
Can anyone share any experiences with city/municipality building
inspectors wrt simple storage buildings like this? That is, this
building won't have any utilties, no interior finish (just raw studs),
but should I expect any final inspections to hold me to the letter-and-
chapter of a full *residential* building code like IBC 2003?
As an example - the IBC calls for treated lumber for sill plates
coming in contact with a concrete slab, or an "impenetrable moisture
barrer" between the plate and the concrete. While that makes complete
sense for a full residence, isn't a bit over the top for a storage
shed? Wouldn't a caulked and gasketed sill plate with untreated lumber
accomplish the intended objective?
I'm not trying to skirt any of the rules, but by the same token I
don't want this simple building to turn in to an overbuilt monster
when all it'll do is hold ladders, lawn mowers, and shovels, if that
makes any sense..
I like using "rough sawn plywood". It's like T-111, without the grooves.
Rough sawn plywood is commonly used for the underside of roof soffits, so
it's usually easy to find.
(IMO, Standard grooved T-111 makes a building look like an apartment
complex, and is only as strong as the thickness in the grooves).
One of the advantages is it serves as both sheathing and siding which
makes the walls faster and less expensive to contruct.
It comes in various thicknesses from 1/4" up to at least 5/8", depending
on the strength and span rating you need.
It's a standard wood product, so it's easy to cut, nail, etc. It takes
paint well, but I prefer to use an opaque stain. I spray on the stain for
ease of application, since the rough texture is hard to roll or brush.
I used the rough plywood for our shed (now over 16 years old), our
garage, our pumphouse (18 years old), and our house. Here's a few example
I use metal "Z-flashing" at all horizontal joints, and caulk all vertical
joints using polyurethane caulk (PL Series available at home centers).
I try to keep all wood AT LEAST six inches from the ground, though my
shed and pumphouse are on 4" slabs and haven't shown any rot problems in
Try to control water/mud splashing up on the walls by installing gutters,
or putting gravel or barkdust around the building.
Of course, annual maintenance (washing the walls, repainting when
necessary) helps a lot too.
Hope this helps,
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