We purchased this home about two years ago. It has a brick front and the
rest is hardiboard. I've thought about affixing a couple of garden hose
reels to the walls in the back and side yards. However, I'm concerned that I
might damage the hardiboard. Is this stuff brittle so that I might risk
cracking it just by driving a couple of nails (or screws) into it? Any
insight is appreciated. Thanks!
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Hardiboard is pretty flexible, so you can put fasteners through it with no
problem. The special tool sold to cut the stuff is really just powered
With almost any product, you can avoid cracking by predrilling.
i have never used hardibacker board but i just bought some for a tile
countertop job i will soon be doing. is this stuff really hard to cut?
can i score it with a utility knike and then break it off? what about a
circular saw? jigsaw perhaps?
Steve said that they sell a special cutter. Or, you might try contacting
the company explaining that you only have a small job which doesn't justify
the expense of a special cutter. Ask what they would suggest.
Hardibacker is different than Hardiboard. Hardibacker is a hard
underlayment for tile. Hardiboard is a textured siding product.
I've never used Hardibacker, but I'd cut it by scoring it with a knife
and snapping it, like wallboard. You can use the techniques mentioned in
the other messages for holes and inside corners.
Hardiboard gives you several options:
* The special tool snips out a small strip. Cleanup is easy.
* Use a masonry blade. This is overkill.
* I've seen circular saw blades at the store that are specifically
labeled for Hardiboard. This is overkill with a price premium.
* You can try scoring and snapping, but I don't know how well that will
work. You'll go through a lot of knife blades.
This is what I do:
* Turn an old blade around backwards in your hand-held circular saw.
This is a cheap solution. Don't use a blade with lots of teeth.
Anything using a saw will create a LOT of dust. Wear a mask, and be nice
to the neighbors.
I just cut a bunch of hardibacker the year before last for a granite
tile countertop. There is a scoring knife specially designed for cutting
hardibacker. It has carbide tips and will last longer than utility
(at the bottom of the page)
I did use a table saw to cut most long pieces. Wear safety glasses and a
face mask and saw it outdoors.
I use an old carbide blade on my table saw. Cuts very clean but very dusty.
Also there is a tool with a carbide tip on it - score and break. Not as
clean as with the table saw. I also have a 10" wet saw with a diamond blade
and that should give the cleanest cut. Circular saw should be ok is you have
diamond or carbide blades.
I've used a utility knife to score then break hardibacker. It's
not perfect though. I now use a straightedge and a carbide blade
in my Makita cordless 3-3/8" circular saw - OUTDOORS[*]. For
circles (dryer exhaust, toilets, etc.) I use a RotoZip and circle
cutter with a carbide bit. I'd probably use the RotoZip and a
template for a sink cutout, were I doing a counter top.
[*] The dust is supposed to be _very_ bad for the lungs.
Its CONCRETE, CEMENTOUS material. You need specialized saw blades and
drill bits to properly cut and drill it. Standard steel tools will wear
out almost INSTANTLY.
HardiBoard, HardiPanel, and HardiBacker are all cement-filled materials
This is that 'exterior sheetrock' (my term) stuff, right? If so I would
treat it just like sheetrock in terms of holes, drill a hole and put a
plastic anchor in before inserting a screw. You don't even need to find a
stud, as I would hope that there is sheathing under it?
Would not be my number one choice for exterior siding but my wife always
gives me the, 'champagne tastes on a beer barrel budget', line so what the
hey! I'm sure it must be cost friendly.
Are you located in the US or overseas? I haven't seen a lot of this stuff
on newer housing, but then I guess I don't get out enough?
Just my $.02.
Um, no, unless you think of sheetrock being made of cement and wood
fiber. And unless you think of sheetrock being structural,
fireproof, and insect-proof. Perhaps you are thinking of
Hardibacker, an underlayment for tile?
There is no need for structural sheathing under it since it is
structural. But it's way too thin for a plastic anchor. Best bet
is to drill it and screw into a stud, especially for something as
heavy as a hose reel holding a lot of hose with water in it.
More expensive than wood or vinyl. You might want to look here:
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