Paul,
You should at the very least install a 1/2" backerboard, and depending upon how the floor is built, possibly a 3/4"+ mortar bed base. Look for a minimum 1-1/4" base over a properly constructed subfloor for your stone or tile.
Who's doing the work? A tile guy might want to go with a mud job (wire lath and mortar) or cement backer board (Durock, Wonderboard, etc.). Both are fine installations if done correctly. If you're doing the work, the backer board is an easier way to go. I always recommend bonding the backer board to the plywood with thinset, as well as using screws or roofing nails. It makes the subfloor monolithic (act as one thicker layer) and stronger. Then your tile/stone can be set with thinset. Latex-modified thinset has more flex, as does latex-modified grout, and the LM grout will be less prone to staining.
RI dought 3/4 ply is solid enough to have no flex, flex and you can crack. Concrete board would be a fix and a good mortar bond.
About to put down 1/2 inch stone on kitchen floor. Would the best way be just like tile and use thin set or go with the wire mesh they use on outside walls for stone facings? Mortor doesn't seem to stick to plywood very well. The kitchen floor is 3/4 plywood. The stone are very flat.
Thanks
Paul
Just pretty good? Sheesh. Tough crowd.
You could use a reducing strip at the transition as you mention, or you could use underlayment plywood under the wood floor to build it up. The transition strip is far cheaper, but is a little kludgy otherwise.
RAll those answers sound pretty good. The one question left would be if the base floor is built with backerboard and morter base this will raise the floor considerably higher than the 3/4" wood floor that is adjacent to the kitchen floor. Would I use some kind of sloped edging down to the wood floor? The wood floor has not been installed as of yet. THe kitchen floor goes in first..or at least that was the plan.
Many thanks!!
Paul
RicodJour wrote:
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