New Maytag stove was delivered a couple of weeks ago. It is a gas
stove, and y'all might remember that I was leery about putting an
extension cord on the (110V) electric cable to run the ignitors, etc.
The Borg doesn't seem to have an appliance cord long enough. Odd.. So
for now it's a beefy extension cord.
Anyways... I opened the oven and took the racks out for its initial
cleaning, and I noticed that in the back of the oven, on the bottom
there are two screws. One seems to be seated properly into the 'floor'
of the oven, but the other looks like it was driven in at about a 30
degree angle, probably stripped to shit, and there it sits, poking up
Should I get on the horn with Home Despot and demand a whole 'nother
Should I reach in and pull the screw out, and see if I can put it in
the right way and call it good?
Should I just leave it as-is and assume I'm overparanoid?
I mean, I don't want to cause a huge stink, really. But since I don't
know anything about the workings of stoves, I would like to be sure
that there isn't something *else* in this unit that wasn't half-assed
in. We are talking about the appliance that deals with gas,
electricity and fire.
Thanks for any and all suggestions.
Makes you wonder who is doing the final inspections, doesn't it?
If nothing else I'd place a service call under warranty so that the
manufacturer gets the message they can't just pile their crap at the
The extension cord conductor wires are about 2x the size of the cord on
the stove itself, but in any event, this is only temporary until I can
visit a few more hardware or appliance stores for a longer, one-piece
appliance cord for the stove. (I only need another 8").
For now, I'm glad I didn't go through the trouble of putting a new cord
on it if I might get a different stove.
Thanks for the concern, though. :-)
The extension cord to power the lamp, ignitor and clock should be fine but
if you still want to do it with one cord, simply buy any grounded extension
cord of the same gague wire and cut it to length. You may need to crimp
some terminals to the end of the wire depending on how it is terminated
A crooked screw as viewed from inside an appliance does not constitute a
manufacturing defect unless it fails to perform its function. If the screw
is holding something in place, it's fine. Don't fix something that aint
broke. Post a photo if you want a more qualified opinion as to if the screw
is not performing.
Number one is overkill.
Number two is really easy to do if it is not stripped or otherwise damaged.
May take just a few minutes.
Number three is probably OK as it is just holding the bottom pan in place,
but, since you paid for a perfect stove, if it cannot be fixed in a few
minutes, have them make a service call to check it out.
I emailed Maytag via their product support interface last night, simply
asking what *they* think of it and how I should proceed in resolving
it. Haven't heard back yet.
Might give them a call tomorrow.
This reminds me of the time I was on an airplane about to take off,
and I saw a guy on the wing doing something. In a few seconds he was
putting the cover panel on, and after a bit, he turned the screwdriver
upside down and was hammering on the screw with its handle. A couple
minutes later he left. I think a lot of the passengers would have
been bothered if they had seen this, but it didn't bother me.
Mechical stuff is not perfect.
I doubt that it is stripped much at all, although maybe at the very
bottom of the threads.
Phillips, torx, flat slot, or hex head? Galvanized , silver, black,
or Zenith colored?
This is why I remove most of the screws, etc. from anything I throw
away, and save all of them. I almost always have exact replacement
screws, and the next size larger as well. Although if the first guy
didn't get it in right, I think there is only about a 50% chance
anyone can do much better.
It just holds the metal together, right? And the metal is together.
And it is not intended to be gas-tight or air-tight chamber to begin
I would not be sure there isn't. In fact, I'm pretty sure there is.
But as long as the gas doesn't leak, you're safe, and if it lights
when it should, you're in fat city.
This is what overflowing pies and spilling food is for. Eventually
the screw head will be covered by crud, and all we be well again.
Although if you do clean the oven, be careful not to stub your fingers
on the screw head. That would be the biggest reason for putting it in
all the way. Hmmm. So if that were likely to happen, and you
couldn't get the screw in**, I'd consider checking what is underneath
it and if there is space to drill, * after* getting a screw one size
bigger, drilling a bigger hole through the two pieces that are there.
The earlier holes were predrilled and clearly, when the time came to
assemble the stove, they didn't align. If you drill the hole in
place, both parts will align. Remember that the size of the hole
should be, since sheet metal screws are probably used, the size of the
shank of the screw, not counting the threads. I would use a matching
style and color screw, because I'm compulsive, but the easiest ones to
install are in order, hex, torx, phillips, and flat.
**First I might loosen the screw on the left rear and maybe the frront
right,and maybe even the front left, and insert and tighten this bad
one, and then tighten the others. For me this would be easier than
calling the dealer and being home when he came. In theory I might
call him and give him this choice, that I fix it, but in practice I
probably wouldn't. Heck, one of the reasons I don't buy much that is
new is to avoid these choices.
Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.
As long as the screw on the access panel wasn't stripped there shouldn't
be any problem. Of course, if the hammering with the end of the
screwdriver resulted in the screw being stripped then shortly after
takeoff the access cover might have popped off, reducing the airfoil
surface, impeding the airflow over the wing and causing turbulence over
the area of the access panel. If it was a small panel and the aircraft
was properly loaded and operated and in perfect weather conditions then
it shouldn't be a problem. Of course there is always the possibility
that there would be ice on the wings, that the aircraft would be
operated outside its weight and balance envelope, or that you could have
an engine failure just after rotation.
In which case you wouldn't necessarily be here to be so flippant about
"mechical (sic) stuff not being perfect".
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