I had to replace the element receptacle I found bad a while back. It was
arcing, and sometimes the element would not heat. I let it go for a few
months, Got a new receptacle at Lowes, and installed it.
Only have about 30 volts coming from the tabs on the Infinite Switch
that go to the burner receptacle. (with the switch on high.)
Other 3 show 230 volts at the tabs to the element receptacles.
Element is showing about 30 ohms resistance even swapped it with another
I do have 230 going into the Infinite Switch , so I'm thinking bad switch.
Guess there is no way to repair the switch.
Would Lowes carry one, or do I need to go to an appliance store.
Just Ran this test I found on the net,
Checking the burner switch Set meter to like Rx1 scale and check switch
with wires unhooked. (Mark the wires before you remove them).
With the switch turned to the on position:
L1 to P: Continuity
L1 to H1: Continuity
L2 to H2: Continuity
With the switch turned to the off position:
No continuity from L1 to P
No continuity from L1 to H1
No continuity from L2 to H2
L1 - Line 1 - 110 volts
L2 - Line 2 - 110 volts
P - Pilot Light - 110 volts
H1 - Heater 1 - 110 volts
H2 - Heater 2 - 110 volts
110 + 110 = 220
L1 to P: Continuity/ Checks OK
L1 to H1: Continuity/ Checks OK
L2 to H2: Continuity / Open (No continuity)
So it looks like that's the problem
Are these switches all the same? Like could I take one from an old stove of
Also does it matter if H1 and H2 are reversed, as I mixed them up. I would
I would suggest it is likely the switch and that 30V is ghost voltage.
If you use an old analog meter it will likely show zero. It just means some
wires are running close to each other but the insulation is still in place.
Yea, like I said, L2 to H2 is showing open, (No continuity) So it looks like
a new switch is in order.
I did take the switch apart and filed the contacts, but still no go.
Looked like a little piece of the bi metal strip was broke off.
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