Sheared lightbulb in recessed socket

[Telstra]

[Hi Ho Silver]

I did a brief google search; here was a different idea:

Take a bar of soap and insert the corner into the socket. Give it a few turns and that base will unscrew. Make sure that the soap is dry and that the power is turned off.

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[George E. Cawthon]

Sure there is if the builder did it. If the architect picked those, he was just nuts, appearance over function.

That's right the builder doesn't do those, but what he does is fit what the buyer/designer wants into the space available. You can pick all sorts of fixtures that won't fit in a specific space without having to go to some really screwy fixture design or using a design in a place it is not intended for.

Bull. Increasing the space for the fixture is as simple as adding wood strips to the bottom of the joists. Even you go to the extreme of maintaining ceiling height by increasing the joist height, the cost increase is negligible. Especially in the types of ceilings that typically have those fixtures. It would cost a bit more if you went from standard stud lengths to a bit longer stud, but you would be stupid to make each stud longer, you would just add 2x4 or 2x6 plates to get the height.

Sure he did, profit margin, inability to convince the designer/home owner of the inappropriateness of that design, inability to think up a rational solution, etc.

Not sure why you want to defend a mistake by the builder. Builders make mistakes all the time.

[RicodJour]

R

[RicodJour]

Did what? Architect? Two sentences and at least three assumptions.

Please review that last sentence and resubmit. It's unclear what you are trying to say.

I'm looking at two recessed fixtures right now that are of the same type that the OP mentions. They're old, have asbestos lining, and they work. Why are they screwy?

Who said the fixtures were put in when the building was going up? Or were you assuming that they were added later and the entire ceiling should have been dropped for a couple of fixtures? You make a lot of assumptions. The OP gave no information at all on the building, type of construction, location, nothing at all.

As far as increasing the joist depth and building height for those fixtures not adding appreciably to the cost, it would affect the amounts of insulation, wiring, sheathing and siding, drywall, paint...you get the idea. It would add a boat load of money to the cost.

By the way, adding that extra plate "solution" would be a hack. _That_ is a bad builder's choice. You'd be adding poorly insulated area to the building, adding a substantial cost, and increasing the amount of unnecessary "built-in" settlement. But, realistically, as I mentioned in my previous post, no builder would do that for some recessed lights.

Again, how do you know that the wrong decision was made in choosing that fixture? Now you're assuming the builder was greedy, unable to communicate and incompetent. You really have it in for the guy!

Maybe the fixtures are in a ceiling/attic floor - nothing unusual for that to have been framed with 2x4s not that long ago and trusses nowadays. If someone put down some sheathing on that attic floor, something that wasn't intended to have storage, the joist depth would be insufficient for the recessed fixture. Who made the mistake there? The guy who designed the house, the guy who added the sheathing, or the guy who installed the fixtures that fit? It's impossible to tell if it was a mistake and whose fault it was as we have no information.

WHAT mistake?! The OP is kvetching about a fixture that he is unfamiliar with. No other information was given other than his guess that the builder skimped on the depth of the floor joists. I pointed out that the logic was skewed.

You're assuming that there was a mistake with no supporting information. I'm old fashioned - I don't like condemning anyone without some evidence.

In any event, the OP was asking for help on removing a broken bulb base, and I think he got the what he was seeking. All's well.

R

[HeyBub]

The solutions for removing broken light-bulb bases are as varied as the remedies for hiccups. All work to one degree or another.

Before you begin on the list, slather the socket with WD-40.

[Boward]

Dude, did you get your bulb out yet?

A few ideas for you.

1. Get a plumbing test plug at the hardware store that will fit into a light bulb base. They have an expandable rubber housing that is adjusted with a nut on the top. I'm not sure if they make them that small, however.

1. Epoxy and a fat bolt. Glue the threaded end of the bolt in the socket and use a socket wrench on the bolt head when it's dry.

2. Get a wooden dowel the same diameter as the socket, cut it in half lengthwise. Insert both halves into the socket and wedge open it with a lag bolt inserted into the cut. Turn the dowel (not the bolt) Be careful when wedging it with the bolt, you will be tightening the base as you turn it. Also be careful you don't expand the socket out of round.

1. Try using right angle snap ring plyers. You can find them in any automotive store.

2. Mud over the recess hole with joint compound and light the room with a desk lamp.

[Tony Hwang]

Hi, I just turn off the power to the fixture and use needle nose plier and then you know what. To prevent this kinda trouble I always use a dab of Silicon dielectric grease on the bulb base. Tony

[Tekkie®]

posted for all of us... I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

Homies has something like this for guess what! Removing broken bulbs. And where in the store would they be? Why in the electrical section...

[George E. Cawthon]

Rather difficult to respond to a person who is so dense, so I try to keep it short. But of course, your response will be to say that it is unclear.

First, I used "if A then B" statements. You seem to think those are assumptions. They are not they are logic statements. I think you maybe one of those people that can't get past the if statement.

You ask a lot of questions that indicate you have failed to follow the thread. Individual responses don't exist in a vacuum but require the thread. For example you ask me why I assume the fixtures went in when the building went up. Let me simplify the thread. "A" suggests a reason that builders use inconvenient designs. You say that A's statement has no validity. I respond with comments which are mostly about the design used by the builder. What is it you don't understand? Don't know what a "builder" is or does? Do you think a builder and a remodeler are the same?

Like I said, dense.

[kevin]

This is great!

As of today, September 20, I count at least 32 separate posts from at least 21 people.

And still the light bulb has not been changed.

So... how many usenet posts will it take?

[Nick Hull]

Epoxy a hex bolt into the lamp base, and use a socket ratchet wrench to extract.

[kj]

That's what I needed to know. Originally it had look to me like the socket was of a piece with the housing, but once I pried the housing out (which took a while), I was able to pull out the socket (which took another while). In comparison, getting the bulb thread out was relatively easy after this, since it wasn't screwed in tightly, just inaccessible until the socket was separated from the housing.

I greatly appreciate all the helpful (and very clever) suggestions. Now I feel like the broken lightbulb expert. :-)

kj

[Chris Lewis]

According to John Grabowski :

Using a potato is mentioned in some DIY books. It works, but, I'd be a bit worried about debris/moisture left behind.

There's a device manufactured that's specifically for this. It consists of a medium-soft rubber "nose" shaped to fit the open end of the broken-off base. I have one - it has three tips for various size bulbs. It's about 2-4" long (depending on which adapter you use), and has a female thread for a broom handle or extending pole on the other.

Largely intended for removing broken off bulbs from high ceilings.

I have no idea who made the thing. As I recall it was about $10. It's all plastic, reasonably well made.

Overkill for the usual situation, it comes in handy when you have a cathedral ceiling.