On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 21:52:49 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
The url that was posted
shows bracing parallel to the length, but none across the width. It
shows the same thing in 7 sketches. Makes me doublt the whole url.
Unless I missed it, doesn't say how deep the posts should go either.
Depth is probably more important than concrete.
If you're putting posts in the ground, you would be building something
more like a pole barn. Around here our local building department has
plans for free and does not require a building permit for them. Since the
wood contacts the soil they are not considered permanent structures
(eventually the posts will rot, even if pressure treated).
Normally, a carport would begin with a concrete slab, then the structure
would be built on top of the slad. The slab would be typically be a
monolithic pour with deepened footings on the perimeter to support the
posts/walls. However, in areas with deep frost lines, it may be easier to
pour separate footings first, then pour the slab later.
In the simplest of terms, you will need a post base at the bottom of each
post. This ties the post to the slab/foundation and elevates the post to
prevent moisture from wicking up.
Then you'll need a column cap at the top of each post. This secures the
beam to the post, as well as giving you a way to tie two beam segments
over a single post.
You'll also need rafter ties at each rafter/truss to tie the roof to the
Remember, an open carport can have a lot of wind pressure blowing from
underneath. You don't want the roof to blow off in strong winds, so
everything will need to be tied together, from the foundation all the way
up to the roof.
I did not take the time to calculate any loads to determine what beam
sizes you'll need.
Prefabricated roof trusses would probably be cheapest and easiest for a
structure of that size.
You'll also need to brace the structure, typically with diagonal braces
or solid plywood at the corners, to prevent the structure from racking.
In most areas, if you are not building the structure for your own use,
you will need to be licensed and insured as a contractor. In other words,
if the structure falls and damages your own cars, that's your problem. If
you build a structure for someone else and it collapses, you could be
responsible for the damage and injuries.
You might compare the costs of building a garage instead of a carport. In
some ways it will be easier to build, and it would be much more useful
than a carport (storage, weather protection, workshop, etc.).
Most of all, study, study, study before you start anything!
22 foot span definitely will need center posts, unle3ss you buy trusses
made to support a 22 foot span. And try to buy 22 foor 2x8s. Most
places only sell up to 16', but a real lumber yard may have up to 20'
and will be costly. 22' is really pushing the limit. You'll need 12'
joined in the center. (cut to 11').
A building that size should have 6x6 posts, not 4x4s.
I suggest you get some pre-made plans and follow them, since you seem to
not know how to build something like that.
Personally, if you're gonna build something that big, I'd make it a
garage. Carports still drift full of snow in winter, and most
"carports" are just small roofed, open sided sheds big enough for one
vehicle. And why 26' long? Most cars and pickup trucks are not over 16'
On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 11:28:07 PM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
or buy a steel carport kit and assemble it......
a friend had 2 vehicles in his carport when we had a bad snow.
that resulted in a scrapper coming to tow away the 2 totaled vehicles, and the failed carport/
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