I recently installed two Sears openers on my garage doors. They came
with remote keypads (wireless) that I mounted outside.
To open the doors with the keypads one must push the 4-key code
followed by the Enter key. The problem is that they do not open the
doors on the first try. We must invariably re-enter the code to
operate a door.
I tried replacing the cheapo batteries provided with fresh alkalines,
but to no avail.
If that's not frustrating enough, adding to our irritation are those
crummy rubbery keypad buttons that want to move off sideways rather
than go straight in when pushed.
Is this normal behavior, or have I gotten two faulty keypads by
coincidence? Or could I (heaven forbid!) have made some sort of
--John W. Wells
I installed a Sears remote opener like you described a couple of years
ago. I remember when I first got it it seemed to mis-enter a lot but
that seemed to get better after a few uses. I probably use the keypad
once a week or so. I recall the problems went away after a couple of
months. If the door opens at all I doubt you made an installation
I put my keypad opener on the garage trim right by the door. I don't
know for sure what the range of the device is but I would suspect the
closer the better. Any chance that you have it too far away?
This is not normal behaviour for these keypads & we install hundreds
of the Liftmaster brand every month w/ almost no failure.
First I would make sure that the antennas on the motor heads are
pointing straight down to the floor. If they still do not work
properly I would move the keypad to different locations (we too also
normally install them on the door trim) & test them before actually
screwing them to the wall.
If you find one spot that works well & if your doors are close
together (the range is approx 50' to 75') you can use one keypad to
open either door. The number is stored in the motor head on the
Chamberlain brand (Sears, Craftsman, & Liftmaster) & not in the keypad
& therefore will open an unlimited number of doors that are within its
range. You could give or sell the other one to anyone that has one of
these brands as long as their opener is Security + or rolling code.
How the buttons are pushed usually does not make any difference. The
keys are lit w/ LED's that can only be seen when it is dark, but if
they light up the key push has been registered.
The factory purposely uses non-alkaline batteries. The keypad is
basically a transmitter w/ a code & I don't know the scientific reason
for it but some alkaline batteries will actually decrease the range on
some transmitters. Many of the manufacturers have recommended for
years to use a non-alkaline battery but the bunny has a better
If all else fails exchange the keypads, but it would be very rare for
one person to get two defective ones, since the failure rate is
If you have any further question, post back.
Thanks Kevin, and thanks also to Pat, Bruce, screamingchild, and
The second 'Enter' does seem to help. I also straightened the antenna
wires a bit (although they were pretty straight to begin with).
The two doors are side-by-side and the keypads are on the door
trim--about as close as they could possibly be to motor heads.
But I'm thinking that perhaps some of the problem IS contact bounce,
so I've lightened up my touch, concentrated on straight-in key
strokes, and slowed my key-pushing speed a bit.
And so far, on about 4 tests today, after careful attention to all of
your suggestions--tah, dah!--they seem to be working!
--John Wellington Wells
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