Not just a question of affording. How much time do you want to spend at
the dealer's waiting room or riding in the tow truck.
In my 54 years of driving I've had 3 tows. Two Oldsmobile, one BMW 3
series. Most expensive trips to the dealer was a Mercedes 300D.
Fortunately that was all covered by company expense account.
In a way I've been lucky. The only times I've had a car towed it was
totalled. That's not to say there weren't some roadside repairs or
limping home but I always made it. Even the last total got me home,
shedding a few pieces and parts along the way.
On 01/30/2016 06:59 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Admittedly it was back in the 100 LS days, but I never had the desire to
buy another Audi. When we divorced my wife got the Audi and I wasn't sad
to see it go. She eventually traded it for a Rabbit (Golf). The first
generation Rabbits were no beauties but by the VW had figured out how
Still most Audi is front wheel biased, BMW is opposite. My new 2016
Acura MDX now can split power between front and rear 50-50 somewhat acts
like RWD car with improved lighter faster acting SH-AWD. With 9 speed
tranny MPG improved by almost 30%. Finally Acura's new plant in Alabama
got their act together regarding build quality.
I don't have a problem with FWD but Audi's execution in the early days
had issues. Or I should say, I don't have a problem anymore. The Audi
was my first FWD vehicle and it was a learning experience. I was used to
On 01/31/2016 01:13 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Yes it did. I was driving to Trois-Rivieres on a rainy day. The rain
stopped but when I turned off the wipers, they didn't. Fortunately it
was a business day so when I got to the next town I could call the
dealership to find out which relay to pull.
Then there were the plug wires that failed without warning about every
15,000 miles. I carried a spare set.
It wasn't the car's fault but after the oil embargo and the 55 mph
national speed limit, which was enforced in the early days, I found it
was not geared for 55 mph cruising and was happier at 75 in 4th.
Again, not really the car's fault but I didn't find the deeply sculpted
seats comfortable. I had actually went in to buy a Porsche 914 only to
find they didn't make it in my size. That's a line I stole from a car
salesman years later. I bought a Firebird from him and when I went in to
kick the tires on the new Fiero he yelled across the showroom floor
'They don't make that in your size'. He was right and I stuck with the
Firebird. I'd already switched to GM when Ford stopped making Mustangs
in my size. It only took them a few decades to make a real Mustang again.
I remember also early Audi had sudden acceleration issues. Main
difference in FWD vs. RWD is steering. Under steering vs. Over steering.
Also FWD vehicle has nothing much at the back regarding drive train.
The only acceleration issue I had was lack of.
It would do 0-60 in about 12 seconds, which means it would probably be
looking at a Prius' taillights. Like the article said, dropping a gear
to pass meant you ran out of revs and when you dropped it into 4th
forward progress died. It kept life interesting.
I got used to the FWD without killing myself. Years later when I heard
about the drifting fad my question was how do you drift a FWD. Then I
found out it was by carefully selecting one of the few Japanese RWD
models, chopping a AWD, or for the most extreme rework the running gear
to make it RWD.
Thumbing through HotRod at the library yesterday, I saw one person was
running 10 second quarters with a FWD. The rest of the featured cars
were RWD but at least it can be done.
Same here. BMW's may have good drivetrains, but the fall apart
way too easily. My friends daughter would break the passenger
side window on his bondmobile (750IL) every time she'd shut the
door. All the plastic trim inside fell off or broke. Unacceptable
for an 80,000 dollar car.
Like Lexus, the everyone I know with an Infiniti just gets
another won after a decade or so of problem-free ownership.
On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 6:28:33 PM UTC-6, Tony Hwang wrote:
I still have a '95 SL2 Saturn. It has never stranded me (except when I left
the lights on!). Failed parts: water pump, alternator, EGR, coolant sensor
...not a bulb (save one on the dash) has blown. Cost of parts (Auto Zone),
about $300. They *can* make a reliable car...too bad this one didn't contin
ue in the same way.
Most folks won't like this car...it is still unique.
We purchased a Samsung W/D on the advice of a friend. Just two of
us in the household so it's not like either sees lots of use/abuse.
Washer lasted ~16 months before the door latch "mechanism" (electromechanical)
failed -- poor design (flimsy plastic parts in the highest "abuse" point of the
Expecting to do the repair myself (out of warranty), the Samsung site couldn't
provide me with definitive information as to which replacement part to use:
I could opt for the part with exactly the same P/N (and exactly the same
crappy design) or *wonder* if the alternative part was compatible and an
*improvement* over the "old" design.
Contacting Samsung directly gave me no additional insight -- they just read
the information from the web site to me! (lots of confidence in that sort
of reply -- NOT!)
After escalating the issue (keep in mind, I'm just trying to get an answer to
"which replacement part should I purchase"), they sent a guy out to do the
repair as a freebie. Technician claimed there were at least *7* versions
(revisions) of our washer (!!).
Great! Though I'd much rather he had shown up with a "new and improved"
replacement part so I wouldn't be counting the months to the replacement
part's (similar?) failure!
I recounted this experience to friend who had recommended the W/D to us:
"Oh, we've already REPLACED *both* the washer and dryer!" Doing some
research on the dryer turned up a common "drum failure" mode. Wunnerful!
That won't be anything *I* can fix (easily).
Yum, yum! :<
One of the places with which I'm affiliated recycles/refurbishes electronic
kit (literally millions of pounds annually). By far, most (defective) LCD
monitors they see are Samsung branded. Almost always bad capacitors or
FETs in the backlight drive (inverter).
Of course, its possible that they have the *lowest* failure rate of all
LCD monitors and the high percentage we see is a consequence of them being
more popular (???) in the market. Or, more popular among the folks who
donate this (defective) equipment.
Or, it could be that they are just a crappier product.
I've been tracking LCD TV donations/repairs in an attempt to get a handle
on that "quality" as well... (our plasma is 13 years old, now -- probably
time to "upgrade" :> )
Don't get rid of that plasma until it fails - particularly if a
Panasonic. They will generally outlast an LED 2 or 3 to 1.
As for the number of LGs in the recycle heap, they are likely by a
pretty large margin the largest seller - and they DO make more than
one model and quality of just about everything they make.
Like my Dad used to say:
If you want first quality oats you need to be willing to pay first
quality price. If you are willing to settle for oats that have already
gone through the horse, THEY DO come a little cheaper - - -
On 2/4/2016 2:33 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
We don't watch much TV. OTOH, the plasma uses a *lot* of electricity! (~300W)
And, it's an eyesore (big "window" in the middle of the living room).
[I'd much prefer a motorized projection screen that I can recess into the
ceiling when not in use.]
I'm moving to a "media server" approach for audio/video sources (so,
"monitors" instead of "televisions"; "speakers" instead of "stereos").
I see this as more value per investment (i.e., don't have to replace
the non-display portions each time you want a "new TV") and more *capable*
solution (unlike the crippled smart-TV's that are reminiscent of the
performance of early PC's -- coupled with all their spyware).
Most of these are from corporate donors. Typically "nicer" kit
but probably less well treated (i.e., employees have little incentive
to turn things OFF when they leave at the end of the day/week; power
supplies don't like staying "on" even if their loads are "off"))
OTOH, for a bit of my time (and $2-3 of parts), *I* can have an
essentially "new" monitor...
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