That was my thought and if this is not digital capable it is a time
bomb anyway. I know I have seen guys throw part after part at a TV
that was "surged" and still end up with an old TV. These things are
wired in a big loop on the primary that includes lots of $20-70 parts
and a lightning hit will take out most of them. If it also got into
the tuner side, getting it to light up is only the start of your
It is no accident that there isn't a TV repair shop in every strip
mall these days.
It is digital capable. It's a pretty decent TV. I doubt that there's
heavy damage, since the woman I got it from didn't say anything about
lightning, and all the fuses and fusible links are good. I also took the
high voltage tripler out of circuit and the rest of the TV seemed to
power up ok.
Like I said before, I'm not going to put a lot of money into this.
That's why I'm asking for troubleshooting help.
note that a neon ac tester will light up in the presence of a working
flyback. but don't play with one just yet, read up on your
troubleshooting questions, please see:
which is from:
George Jetson wrote:
Proof by assertion? You haven't convinced me.
Do you know that the TV can kill you after it is off, after it is
unplugged, for days afterwards or maybe even weeks if the discharge
device is bad?
Do you know how to discharge the picture tube after the set is off,
without touching it electrically?
Even I don't know if the part that precedes the flyback is dangerous.
I just never touch it.
Actually, I think there are three types of people contributing to this
thread. One, people who believe that I know what I'm doing well enough
to follow simple instructions and not kill myself. Two, people who don't
care if I know what I'm doing well enough to follow simple instructions
and not kill myself, but contribute information anyway. And three,
people who withhold information until I can somehow prove that I know
what I'm doing well enough to follow simple instructions and not kill
If you fall into one of the first two catagories, then I appreciate any
information you can give. If you fall into the last catagory, then feel
free to ignore this thread.
I'm not trying to be an asshole. But I'm certainly not going to provide
a resume to anyone who thinks I need to prove my worthiness to receive
If you are not "trying" to be an asshole, then I guess it comes
naturally, and without effort for you. People who have experience
working on televisions have an awareness of how how dangerous they are
for the smug amateur handyman who thinks he knows all the answers when
he doesn't even know what questions to ask. Those who want to make
sure you are not one of "those", are merely being responsible and
showing concern for your welfare. They are trying to help you without
getting you injured or killed. It's not about you or your worthiness.
It's about them being responsible and caring.
Really, I'm not. I just think that my safety is solely MY
responsibility, and if I'm comfortable with my level of knowledge in
this area, then anyone who wishes to help me should accept that I am.
You speak as if there are numerous people who are concerned about my
level of expertise in TV repair, and I'm writing replies bashing them
all. Actually, my original response was to one particular person, mm.
Several people asked about my experience, and I politely answered.
Several people gave me safety advice, which I gladly accepted. A number
of people just accepted that I knew enough to work on TV's and offered
troubleshooting advice. As a matter of fact, YOU were the second person
to give me advice, with no thought as to my qualifications. By the way,
thanks for the advice.
On the other hand, mm flatly called me a liar, and then proceeded to
quiz me with VERY basic TV troubleshooting questions, implying that he
wouldn't answer any questions unless I passed the test. Even though I
was VERY insulted, I just told him that he didn't have to offer any
advice if he didn't think I was qualified to apply it.
That's when you stepped in. Yes, I realize everyone can read my replies,
but that doesn't mean those replies are directed to everyone. I was
specifically replying to mm, not you, or anyone else. So if I said
something to offend you specifically, I apologize. But if you're
offended by what I said to mm, please keep it to yourself. It's none of
One of the more common (totally dead) failures I see is a cracked circuit board
which interrupts some of the circuit traces. This is common in the area of the
flyback due to its weight. If the set is dropped or otherwise subjected to
sufficient G-forces the weight of the flyback causes enough board flex to crack
it. Sometimes these are easy to see, sometimes finding all of them can be a
real tough nut.
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