I have a brand new gaggenau cooktop and it gets rust spots if you don't
wipe it dry every time its used. Is there something you can treat it
with that will make it more like real stainless steel (it doesn't seem
to be very stainless)? I was thinking of using the rust-oleum clear
appliance spray enamel. Also some stainless "polishes" claim to resist
moisture. Whats the best thing to do?
The stainless cooktop might be 400 series stainless (for high polish
look) rather than 300 series (more often a brushed finish)
400 stainless is normally magnetic, 300 stainless typically not
magnetic (but can be magnetic depending on alloy & cold working)
400 stainless does have the corrosion resistance of 300 series
Contact the dealer & the mfr for more information.
Some of the so-called stainless steel coming out of China is pretty
crappy, they cheat a lot on standards, and American importers play
along because the price is right. I don't know if this is the case with
your appliance, but it wouldn't surprise me.-Jitney
There are a lot of materials out there called "stainless" steel.
I'm not going to cut & paste from their publications; you can quite easily
read what they have to say at:
You may especially be interested in:
Care and cleaning: http://www.ssina.com/publications/ccss.html
Residential applications: http://www.ssina.com/publications/stn_rez.html
There is a technique called "passivation" that can make the "stainless"
steel more resistant to corrosion. When I worked for a healthcare
manufacturer, everything was made of stainless, and everything had to be
passivated before it went into production. Passivation is a nasty process,
and should probably NOT be done at home. However, here are some links if
you want to learn...
Overview of passivation:
The pertinent sentence from the above page:
"In lay terms, the passivation process removes "free iron" contamination
left behind on the surface of the stainless steel from machining and
Nitric acid process for passivation:
Citric acid process for passivation:
The citric acid procedure sounds doable for a homeowner if you can get
the acid to stay in contact with the SS long enough. Maybe a cloth
saturated with the citric acid solution can be laid on the SS surface
for 20 minutes or so.
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Thanks for the passivation links. I've been using nitric acid for years
to etch my stainless blades, mainly ATS-34, S-30-V and some
pattern-welded blends. Always called it "etching" or "pickling" and
mainly did it to bring out the grain in the steel. Never knew the
precise mechanism behind it.
Here\'s some of my work:
Wow! Stunning work. I love the exotic materials. I've got a rock I
found when I was about 12 or 13 years old, and I've always wondered if
it's mammoth tooth. Or, maybe it's just a big white rock with
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