My laundry drain has a problem, after reviewing the line with video cam they
discovered the drain line broke before the line ties into the main line.
This caused sand to be pulled into the line when I do laundry and eventually
clogs the line every once so often.
Solution offered by plumber is to repair the pipe. This pipe sits below the
monolithic 8" concrete slab at about 6 feet from the edge of the house.
They can tunnel under from the side and that will be like $4000, but
according to my plans the slab is sitting on a footing that is another 2
feet deep, so they have to dig very very low, and here in Miami, I am 2
miles from the beach the soil is very sandy. I don't know how much they
will have to dig and whether this will cause the house to be unstable after
this massive digging.
Another option is to break from top, but this line is right at the wall
between the garage and kitchen, and kitchen cabinets are in the way.
Breaking the concrete from top will mean removing kitchen cabinets, and the
floor is tiled there with no replacement tiles. Probably will be a lot of
dust as well. This will be $1800.
I don't like either solution. Now the laundry drain is in the garage, along
the wall between my kitchen and garage. What I am thinking is, the kitchen
sink has a drain, and it is along the exterior wall that is 6 feet from the
laundry line. Can I not work a line inside that common interior wall - have
to probably cut holes through a few studs, and once it reaches the exterior
wall, I can bent the pipe and then lead it to the kitchen drain. There is a
garbage disposal there, if I can figure out a way to tie them together, can
I not drain through the kitchen sink drain instead?
Is there any major problem with doing this and leave the other line just
Should I have to fix it the other ways, I guess none of these can be claimed
from Homeowner insurance?
This is not something covered under your insurance policy. Duh....
The only thing I would be concerned about is backflow coming up your
kitchen sink if you do it the way you describe. You really don't want
You *might* get away with it. Depends on the actual size of the
kitchen drain in the wall. If it's 2", I'd try it.
As Scott said, you may have backups (sudsy) in the sink.
You'll have a better chance of success if you install a small
laundry tub in the garage to receive the water, then it will
drain (slowly) into the kitchen drain in the wall.
I'm not convinced that this is a DIY project; there may be
serious venting issues which will need to be solved when the
2 drains are combined.
I cannot do a laundry sink. A laundry sink will result in a lower elevation
than the kitchen sink, so there is no way I will be able to run a length of
pipe about 6' long and still be able to tie into the kitchen drain at a
I understand that there might be back flow, but I saw a lot of dish washer
has tie-ins to the kitchen drain or even garbage disposal, wouldn't that
have the same problem? yet I have seen it done all the time.
Actually, you want to tie into the drain *after* the sink trap.
That would mean *lower* than the trap outlet.
And it would all be inside the wall.
The washer dumps a *huge* amount of water all at once.
The drain has to be big enough to handle that without backup.
As I said before, if the drain (in the wall) for the sink is 2"
it *should* work to add the washer. But there are venting issues
and (locally) the connection may not be permitted.
You're in uncharted waters here and I think you need some
competent advice from someone local who can look at it.
Thanks for the comment. Yes there is a danger of backing up, but I don't
think someone local can help either. I mean there is not additional
information to be had if a local plumber or drain expert were to come out to
the property. The kitchen sink is located against an exterior wall, and all
I can see below the kitchen sink are the bottom of a double sink. The left
side drains into a garbage disposal, then a trap and then ties into the
right side drain, then a p-trap that connects into the wall. Behind the
wall, and inside the CBS wall, is the drain down and I have no idea of the
drain size there. I know there is a vent that goes straight up through the
roof and the vent size is 3" in diameter.
So unless someone opens up the concrete block wall to see the drain size,
there is nothing else that could help in formulating this decision, or is
there? One thing I do know, the kitchen sink tie in is at the downstream
most point to the street sewer. All other tie-ins are upstream of it. So I
guess venting wise if a vaccum is created, it could cause upstream toilets
to bubble? But the existing laundry line tie in used to be just upstream of
the kitchen tie in, but that line had a crack in it, which is the cause of
this whole thread.
The crack, as seen from those sewer line video cam, highly magnified, looks
like two pipes that used to connect together, sort of bust open a bit.
Downstream from it where it ties into the main line, around the bent, was a
pile of sand. Which we deduced was caused by the laundry discharge pulling
the sand in through the crack and down the line. We had to use a pipe with
reverse spray to comb some of it out to the main sewer. I wonder, if I can
reduce the flow rate of the water down that original line, will that help
not pull sand in? May be just put a laundry tub and discharge the washer
into the tub, and let the tub drain slowly down that line so as to not rush
too much water in at once? Not sure if this will work or not. Just
thinking out loud.
I tied my washer into the pipe that comes down from the kitchen sink. Just
cut into the plastic drain pipe and put a T connection for the washer drain.
The washer has enough pressure to pump the water up to the line, (about 5
feet overhead) which was a concern, but it works fine.
option 2 dig up the concrete and do it right.
When selling the home you will have to disclose this and it could have the
buyer back out. I would.
But that will mean redo the kitchen! The place to dig is where I have
cabinets, so that has to be ripped up. Kitchen is open style that opens to
living dinning and hallway with uniform tiles and not a single spare
available and I have looked around the area and found no close matches. So
this means beyond the repair I have to redo the base cabinets and at least
re-tile the entire kitchen area.
What equipment will one use to open a hole in a 8" deep RC slab? Will it be
a jack-hammer? So may be the countertop needs to be moved too to make room
I am having a nightmare.
Never used this process or service but maybe it will work in your
Seems like it would be worth a try rather than all that demo & digging
Your washer-water is "gray-water"
In many areas it doesn't have to go into the sewer.
You could dig a hole in the yard, ( french drain )
fill it with rocks, and route the washer water there.
( unless you have long cold winters )
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