My asphalt shingle roof (approximately 20 years old) leaks. This is the
roof over the first floor that covers the kitchen, BR closet and
bathroon. I have had leaks into all three rooms. I replaced the black
felt and 27 feet of shingles (linear) from the side of the second floor
wall outward about three feet. I installed new flashing up under the
old flashing and re-nailed it. I've used black roofing caulk as well as
elastomeric caulk and have slowed down the leaks but not stopped them.
Went back out two days ago and noticed the bottom corner of the windows
were rotted. Since it was about to rain, I caulked the corners and the
area under the windows. That almost stopped the bathroom leaks.
My question is, is there a temporary fix I can apply over the shingles
and the exposed flashing (6 inches) to act as a water barrier until next
I've looked into Koolseal's elastomeric roof coating but they say it
does not work for asphalt shingles.
Any suggestions? Thanks much.
Blue tarps will do for awhile.
What is your roof pitch?. With that many leaks, it may be too low a slope
for shingles to work properly. Before you re-shingle next year, you may wish
to check that you pitch is at least 4" per foot laterally, for replacement
asphalt shingles to work properly. You may have to use another type of
permanent roofing system, if you have a low pitch.
Yes, there are lots of blue tarps around here in the Florida Panhandle.
I don't know what the pitch is. Probably not much. I suspect you may
be correct about the too low pitch being part of the problem.
Thanks for your reply. Yes, it is a one story extension of a two story
house. The house was built in 1938 and is right on the Gulf of Mexico.
The house received new siding (similar to Hardy board) and a new roof 20
years ago. There was no flashing at all on/around the brick chimney. I
installed flashing two months ago around the chimney (no longer used)
and stopped the leak into the kitchen. I still have a second kitchen
leak but that is from a metal pipe that runs from underneath the house
and up the side. Where this pipe comes up through the first floor roof
is where the leak is. I suspect it also moves laterally and is not
leaking into the BR closet. Here, I have used black roof caulking all
around the pipe to try and seal the leak. Apparently not well enough, I
As for the weather barrier in the second story walls, I do not know if
there is any barrier installed.
Sounds like you are chasing down several leaks.
Flashing @ chimney, windows, flashing @ wall & roof, pipe
You are probably doing all that can be done without major work.
Leaks are hard to trace, since water moves around within the
Other than putting a big blue tarp over the roof? No, nothing else
But look at it a different way, WHY is water collecting there? What about
the situation isn't getting the water away from the house like it should?
Is the roof pitch too shallow? Are there rain gutters dumping water in the
wrong place? Or are there NO gutters that would move the water to the right
place? Caulking is never a solution for stopping what should be handled
through other means.
Where may I purchase blue tarp? I thought it was only available from
FEMA? All of the blue roofs I've seen are after hurricanes and FEMA has
OK'ed the roof repair.
The roof pitch may well be too shallow. I don't know what the pitch is.
There are no gutters on the second story roof.
I agree with you that caulking is not the true solution. I don't own
the house so I'm just trying to do some stopgap repairs until I can move.
Thanks for your reply. Appreciate it.
:>>My question is, is there a temporary fix I can apply over the shingles:>>and the exposed flashing (6 inches) to act as a water barrier until next
:> :> :> Other than putting a big blue tarp over the roof? No, nothing else:> temporary.:> :> But look at it a different way, WHY is water collecting there? What about:> the situation isn't getting the water away from the house like it should?:> Is the roof pitch too shallow? Are there rain gutters dumping water in the:> wrong place? Or are there NO gutters that would move the water to the right:> place? Caulking is never a solution for stopping what should be handled:> through other means.:>
:Where may I purchase blue tarp? I thought it was only available from
:FEMA? All of the blue roofs I've seen are after hurricanes and FEMA has
:OK'ed the roof repair.
:The roof pitch may well be too shallow. I don't know what the pitch is.
: There are no gutters on the second story roof.
:I agree with you that caulking is not the true solution. I don't own
:the house so I'm just trying to do some stopgap repairs until I can move.
:Thanks for your reply. Appreciate it.
I've seen blue tarps all over, in particular Home Depot. I ordered a
silver tarp from Harbor Freight online, and it was a better deal than
Home Depot and evidently a better tarp. This was around two years ago,
and it's on my garage right now. The recent hurricanes may have dried up
the supply of big tarps, though. I couldn't find one after the storms of
summer 2004 to save my ass.
On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 08:52:02 -0500, "wkearney99"
:> and the exposed flashing (6 inches) to act as a water barrier until next:> spring?
I delayed my reroof job by buying and using a 5 gallon can of roof
cement that cost me $20. I used about 3 gallons of it and after a
September storm caused a leak I couldn't figure out how to stop, I set a
date with a roofing company. I just couldn't imagine where I'd put
cement to stop that leak. I wanted to wait for spring. A foundation
contractor told me he thought the cost of materials would go way up by
spring, so I figured stop the leak or not, it was time to have the roof
done ASAP. The job was long overdue, and it's done now.
I have used a product similar to Koolseal and it did stop the leaks. At work
we have 55 gallons drums of the stuff. Use it every time we touch a
penetration through the roof. Seems to work for us.
You may need several coats to stop the leak. Best to let dry between the
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.