What are the pros and cons? I live in So Cal were the summers and
winter are relatively mild. I currently have worn asphalt shingles over
wood shake. So the whole thing will need to be torn off and sheeted. I
find metal roofing to have an interesting look and I am wondering if it
has a longer life than asphalt shingle. I'm sure the initial cost is
more. The house is about 1000 sq' and has a hip roof. TIA!
Not a professional roofer & didn't stay @ Holiday Inn Express.
Metal is preferable in fires, which you know about. Some metal types
have much longer reported lifetime. Metal requires quite different
skills to install properly, and costs much more than 3-tab or wood.
The house is in California where the fire referred to is a woods fire and
hot embers are falling on the roof of the house. The steel will not burn
from small embers that could set the other roofs on fire from the top.
If you can afford it, I would vote for metal. The price may not be so
bad if you factor in possible fire insurance rate savings. Yes metal
generally last much longer than asphalt shingles. I doubt if you will live
long enough to know how long it last.
As I just replied to someone else, I replaced my heavy shake with Gerard
metal a few years ago. Very happy with it. I live in hail belt my
homeowners dropped 27%. (I would have loved to have had this roof when I
lived in Chatsworth during a big fire).
We have a metal roof. Because they are uncommon it was a real trial to get
it done. They delayed the project enormously. Still leaks 10 years later.
Cost a fortune. Nobody else seems to know how to fix it. Installer no good
Leaks around a chimney. Called the installer back multiple times. Also got
another company come out to find the leak and they improved it some. Still
leaks after it rains for several days straight. The cost was the same as a
cedar shake roof quote. Very frustrating but we aren't the sueing types.
Those types of leaks can be frustrating. If you are referring to a brick
chimney it may not be the roof at all but water seeping through porous
bricks I had something like that. Finally got control of it after
eliminating flat spots on top and using a water sealant over the outside of
the fireplace chimney
Hmmmm. I don't know the answer to that one. The chimney is brick. They
were unable to duplicate it by running a hose on the outside of the chimney
for 20 minutes or so. The chimney cap is supposedly concrete but it is way
up there, I have never seen it. The flashing doesn't seem to be the
I have a fireplace chimney. Half of it is a dummy area cemented shut at the
top and just a board closing it at the bottom. When we get rain for a
couple days (very rare in this area) water begins to seep from the inside.
It drains down the inside of the chimney. No water noticed on the fireplace
side. A single day of rain is no problem. I put additional sealant on
the top and that helped some. I now used Thompsons water seal on the
outside and will have to wait to see if that cures the problem. I also
noted some very fine cracks in the mortar that I sealed with some silicon.
My mothers house has a brick chimney, concrete cap that developed a crack
that leaked in heavy rains, dripped onto some sort of ledge and ran across
to the front and seeped down around the side of the hearth onto the floor.
I have a fake boxed chimney on my house, the metal cap rusted in a spot due
to the metal sagged and water puddle for many years (before I bought the
place). Did not have a problem for a while until one time a heavy rain
almost flooded or living room. Had to have a new one made and was a bear
trying to get that thing replaced !
You must have some real idiots working around there.
I am a farmer. I have a steel roof on my barn that is 50 years old.
It had a few leaks because of loose nails. I fixed them using screws,
and used a little silicone caulk on some others that would not easily
come out, but had bad washers. However, this is the old corrigated
steel. That stuff was never the best as far as being 100% leak proof,
and the old nails had lead washers. Add to that, the fact that it's
around 50 years old, and the roof has a little sag in the center from
snow loading, and the fact the roof should have had more pitch, and I
guess I really cant complain.
The newer style barn steel is much better. Screws are now used with
neoprene washers. The shape of the steel makes it nearly impossible
to leak. I have built several sheds with it, and never one leak,
unless I missed the wood when I installed a screw (easily fixed with
silicone). I can not understand why they cant fix your leaks. It's
not rocket science.
I believe the stuff they use on some houses now, is even supposed to
be better than the barn type steel, but much more costly. I have the
barn steel on my back porch roof, and have a neighbor that used it on
his whole house. No leaks at all. I know my asphalt shingles will be
needing replacement in a few years, and will use the barn steel.
Pricewise, it's a little more than double the cost of shingles, for
the materials. I do my own work, so I have no idea what the labor
would run). But replacing shingles that loose tabs everytime there
are high winds is irritating, and replacing the entire roof every 15
years or so is not my idea of fun. Once I put the barn steel on my
roof, it will outlast me, and it's faster to install than shingles.
I would not even consider another asphalt shingle roof. In my
opinion, they are obsolete technology.
I also have used metal on many barns and sheds without problems. However I
would use the type that a frien used on his house once the type installed
that is held down by fasteners that are hidden when the adjoining panel is
snapped into place and seamed together. Those type requires professional
installation but really is there until the house falls down and no exposed
screws/nails to leak either, more like the commercial buildings use.
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