On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 19:31:04 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I took my '66 F-100 to a Firestone to get 2 new tires and they had an
alignment special going on, so I told them to do that too.
When I paid for the work and picked it up a couple hours later, I
ducked under it and saw they hadn't touched the tie rod ends - the
nuts were still grungy.
I went back inside and told the manager they hadn't done the
alignment. He went to talk to the mechanic, came back and told me
they didn't have the equipment to do the alignment on twin I-beam.
Showed him my invoice where it said clear as day "Alignment $15.00."
Of course he refunded the 15 bucks.
That was the first and last time I was in a Firestone.
The least the idiots could have done is CHECKED the alignment. That
doesn't take special equipment. If caster and camber were OK they
could then have adjusted the toe - which also does not take special
I guess in a Firestone shop the "special equipment" they don't have
extends to what belongs between their ears. Once a Twin I Beam
suspension is properly aligned it takes a LOT of abuse to require
re-aligning the beams. ( they need to be bent or twisted)
On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 7:31:08 PM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
ht rear tire has slow leak. Took it to discount tire, not where I got the t
ires, didn't want to drive 100 miles to get flat fixed.
nd came in telling me I need new tires and he can fix me right up. The pric
e he quoted was lower than what I spent last summer, but I had to keep insi
sting, I don't need new tires, I just got these last summer. It seemed like
he was about to put on new tires whether I wanted them or not. I didn't ev
en want a price quote.
t need any and don't want any.
I took a car into a chain tire store to have them look at the brakes. I
was pretty sure I had a stuck caliper or caliper pin, but it was mid-
winter and I didn't feel like checking it myself.
I was standing at the counter talking to the manager when the tech came
out and told me that I needed a new caliper, adding "If you do one, you
should do both." When I asked the tech if it could be just the caliper pin,
not the caliper, he said "You can't replace the pins on that vehicle, you
have to replace the whole caliper."
I stared at him silently for a few seconds, then turned to the manager and
politely asked "Is that true?"
Manager: "Ummm...well...errr...you see..."
It was kind of fun to watch him struggling as he tried to figure out how to
deal with the fact that his tech had just lied to my face.
I saved him the trouble by telling him to find *another tech* to put the
car back together and back it out. I pointed to the tech and told the manag
that I did not want *him* touching the car again.
I watched carefully as a different tech reattached the caliper and put the
wheel back on.
That is one reason why I do my own work on my own car. If I don't have
the tool(s) to diagnose a more complicated issue, I will have a local
shop look at it as I play stupid to the understanding of vehicles.
Though, I can say that local shop is honest and if I don't have the
tool(s) to fix the repair, they get my business.
On Thursday, July 14, 2016 at 5:33:58 PM UTC-4, SBH wrote:
Interesting that in all this discussion about taking the car to the
tire place, the guy pinching the tires with his fingers, telling him
that the tires are kaput, that there isn't one mention of how much
tread is left on them. Anyone tells me the tires are shot, that's
the first thing I'd ask them, how much tread is left? and/or why
else do they need to be replaced. With less than 10K miles on them,
something would have to be radically wrong for them to be worn out so
soon, but the amount of tread left is the decisive factor, unless
something else is wrong with the tires.
I repair all brands of roll laminating machines for a living.
there are so many repair places ripping people off, that many customers dont trust anyone:( thats sad.
I never sell anything that isnt necessary.
GBC general binding corportation is my big competitor. they charge 370 dollars for the first hours labor. now thats just insane.
they have hurt themselves a lot. my labor rate sounds high its over a 100 bucks a hour
Those tires aren't worn out, they have plenty of tread on them. The employee was talking out his ass trying to get me to buy new tires I didn't need. He didn't even use a tread gage. Those tires are good for another 20,000 miles, easy.
He just wanted to sell new tires and tried lying his ass off, which has probably worked before, but I just bought those tires July 2015.
The only way I'd vote for Hillary is if the plane needed to be lightened, and we needed to choose someone to push out.
Probably, one time I got new tires all around, they kept my good spare and put a wore out tire on for the spare. It's lucky I checked because they went to the trouble to put the wore out spare under the truck, and I might not have known until needed.
They were dejected when I asked for the good tire back.
On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 12:43:02 PM UTC-4, cowabunga dude wrote:
t rear tire has slow leak. Took it to discount tire, not where I got the ti
res, didn't want to drive 100 miles to get flat fixed.
d came in telling me I need new tires and he can fix me right up. The price
he quoted was lower than what I spent last summer, but I had to keep insis
ting, I don't need new tires, I just got these last summer. It seemed like
he was about to put on new tires whether I wanted them or not. I didn't eve
n want a price quote.
On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 11:42:48 -0500, "cowabunga dude"
I'm glad you resisted. Some would have caved.
Years ago I went to a transmission place because I thought they would
read my transmission codes for free, and indeed they said they would,
but it ended up costing me my car.
The day it was clear weather but the guy couldn't find the connector,
so I said I'd find it and come back.
I came back when it was raining, so they put it in a bay, and I didn't
go in. (I had stood next to the car when it was outside.) I kept
looking in the bay through the window in the door from the waiting
room, and then the car was gone!!! They'd taken it for a test drive,
in the rain, without asking me. -- I complained about that later, to
the owner's son.
Wrote me up all kinds of things that they said were wrong with it. I
did need a control arm bushing, iirc, which I did myself, and they
said I needed two motor mounts.
I bought the mounts and took out the right one, but the replacement
woudn't fit. So I put the original back. I tried to take out the
front one and scratched the radiator in the process. I bought a new
radiator but I couldn't get the old one out. I stopped the leak with
stop leaks, and two years later the car overheated and I blew the
engine. It wounldn't have happened if I hadn't scratched a leak in
And I eventually realized I didn't need the motor mounts at all. It
was just a scam.
Oh, yeah, they couldn't find any codes, but later I paid a better
transimission place and they found one, related to my thumping when
decelerating from 60 to 59 and from 6 to 5. But it was almost stupid
of me to check because the repair was almost certain to be more than
it was worth to me, and indeed it was. But a year later the noise
went away and stayed away. The only time a mechanical thing ever
fixed itself IME.
Well, except the noise 5 seconds after I slam my front door. That
went away after 2 years and 200 times.
New Ford 500. At around 40,000 after routing lube/oil. Your poweer steering fluid is dirty, needs changing.
Odd. I didn't have them do it and it was never mentioned again.
About 50K - you need new brakes. That kept on every oil change for a couple years and finally stopped.
Odd as the car is driven very conservatively. I doubt it had more than a couple hard stops in all those miles.
At 70K - You need new brakes.
I took it to Les Schwab tire (great place, no rip-offs) who checked and sais "I _tend_ to agree with them. I had them do it but still suspect he was just 'going along'.
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