I guess what I'm trying to ask is there any restriction as to what size cabinet I can put in? I am limited to space, but if I could , is there any code violation if I put in lets say a 20/40 panel? I thought the main service dictates how big of a panel you can put in.
might be a good idea to upgrade serive from the meter location to a minimum of 100 amps and price a 200 amp upgrade. which might be very little more
50 amps is really low for any home today:(
It's a condo. He doesn't own the meter base or the distribution wires, if it is like most. Most condos, even the work 'inside the 4 walls' that he has described, would have to be done by an association or management company approved electrician. The whole building may only have 200 or
400 amp service, split among 4-6-8 units. If it has window A/C units, it probably wasn't built as a condo, it is probably an old converted apartment building from 1960s at newest, if the 240v outlets are original. We just don't know, unless OP cares to post more details.Being a glorified apartment, 50 amps is likely adequate, unless he is planning on installing a server farm or ceramics kiln.
Well at this point investigating options is a good idea and likely free:)
ACs, electric water heaters, electric stoves, kitchen appliances, hair dryers and curling irons, todays homes are power hungry.
Years ago a customer of mine reported he lived in a condo and his main panel was bad and only 50 amps, and he couldnt go larger.
the power company put in a service drop at their expense just for him for free:) A side benefit.... it freed up capacity for the other 3 residences, after that they upgraded too, although he didnt know the details
he said it was a PIA getting everyone to agree but his cost was minimal which he liked
Correct, I believe the bldg is approx 60 units total, built around
1955-1960s. It has through the wall A/C's, with dedicated 220V outlets next to them. To my knowledge, all of the units have FPE panels.
I went to Lowes this morning, and although they only had a 6/12 Square D Lug box, the dimensions are the same for 8/16, which is 12.57" X8.88". It looked pretty tight in the box, with the neutral bar being op top, And only like a inch space on the left side to route the neutrals. If it looked that tight for a 6/12, the 8/16 is even tighter. The other boxes I saw (GE/Murray,Cutler Hammer) although bigger looks like it had more room inside.
I went to Lowes this morning, and although they only had a 6/12 Square D Lug box, the dimensions are the same for 8/16, which is 12.57" X8.88". It looked pretty tight in the box, with the neutral bar being op top, And only like a inch space on the left side to route the neutrals. If it looked that tight for a 6/12, the 8/16 is even tighter. The other boxes I saw (GE/Murray,Cutler Hammer) although bigger looks like it had more room inside.
*I think that the Square D box is slightly deeper, but go with whatever box that you want. It's nice to have plenty of working space.
I went to Lowes this morning, and although they only had a 6/12 Square D Lug box, the dimensions are the same for 8/16, which is 12.57" X8.88". It looked pretty tight in the box, with the neutral bar being op top, And only like a inch space on the left side to route the neutrals. If it looked that tight for a 6/12, the 8/16 is even tighter. The other boxes I saw (GE/Murray,Cutler Hammer) although bigger looks like it had more room inside.
I had only suggested a QO because of your possible space restrictions. If you've got the room, I'd get a box big enough to walk in.
I appreciate the suggestion, thanks anyway.
Ok, so heres my next question. I saw ground buss bars at HD. How do you mount these inside the boxes? I don't see any holes in the panels that line up, it looks like I need to drill 2 holes and install nuts and bolts. Is there a method of doing this?
Ok, so heres my next question. I saw ground buss bars at HD. How do you mount these inside the boxes? I don't see any holes in the panels that line up, it looks like I need to drill 2 holes and install nuts and bolts. Is there a method of doing this?
**You can drill and tap or use bolts. Scrape the paint off first
Is a condo application with a seperate meter room........
Is the main really a main? or should the grounds be isolated from the neutral like a sub panel is
The new main panel should be mounted to wood, and if thats the case wood screws can attach the bus bar to the cabinet, screing thru to the wood
Is a condo application with a seperate meter room........
Is the main really a main? or should the grounds be isolated from the neutral like a sub panel is
The new main panel should be mounted to wood, and if thats the case wood screws can attach the bus bar to the cabinet, screing thru to the wood
** The new panel is a sub panel. It will probably be mounted to 2x4's on each side. The grounding buss bar ABSOLUTELY CANNOT be mounted with wood screws, screwed through the box. You know Haller, even a broken clock is correct twice a day, I'm not so sure bout you.
Well I added a buss bar to a existing main, used wood screws to mount it thru the bar into the plywood mount board.Ran copper line to existing buss bar, so it was properly connected
It passed middle states inspection, in the process of a home sale/
the idiot home inspector wrote up the main because although it had the inspection sticker the signature was no longer legible, the ink had faded.you could still see it had been signed
Now how would anyone add a buss bar to a existing panel, unless you were willing to disconnect everything, remove the box and use machine screws and nuts...
Well I added a buss bar to a existing main, used wood screws to mount it thru the bar into the plywood mount board.Ran copper line to existing buss bar, so it was properly connected
It passed middle states inspection, in the process of a home sale/
the idiot home inspector wrote up the main because although it had the inspection sticker the signature was no longer legible, the ink had faded.you could still see it had been signed
Now how would anyone add a buss bar to a existing panel, unless you were willing to disconnect everything, remove the box and use machine screws and nuts...
** First of all, this is a new sub panel, which has no existing grounding bar to connect to. There is only a neutral buss. You can install the bar by drilling and taping. We do it all the time
Ok, so heres my next question. I saw ground buss bars at HD. How do you mount these inside the boxes? I don't see any holes in the panels that line up, it looks like I need to drill 2 holes and install nuts and bolts. Is there a method of doing this?
*Like RBM said, you may have to drill and tap some holes. Most panels come with predrilled holes that just need tapping with an 8/32 tap. However unless you get the ground bar specifically for your panel (There is usually a part number on the inside label) you will have to drill out the ground bar or drill a hole or two in the panel. You cannot use bolts with nuts without tapped holes. It is important for a good ground connection to have fine threads screwed into the box. Sheet metal screws and self drilling Tek screws are not acceptable and neither is wood screws.
You cannot use bolts with nuts without tapped holes.
If you have less than 2 threads in the tapping, you must use nuts (250.8-5)
*Thanks for the clarification Roy.
I want to thank everyone for your inputs. I was at Lowes again and happen to stumble across a Square D Homeline value pack HOM1224L125VP
12/24 that come with 2-20A breakers and a factory installed ground bar. Whats wierd is Lowes doesn't show this on their website, nor does Squared D have this in the catalog. When I e-mailed Squared-D this is the reply I got within 5 minutes."Thank you for your recent internet inquiry.
The HOM1224L125VP consists of a HOM1224L125TC -125Amp 12 space/24 circuit factory installed main lug load center with equipment ground bar kit, and (2) HOM120 Homeline 20 Amp single pole circuit breakers.
The HOM1224L125TC is available separately, and the -T in the -TC suffix is for a factory installed ground bar"
So it looks like I found the panel I'm looking for. Just goes to show sometimes you have to go to the store and look more closely as some companies manufacture product exclusivly for Lowes or HD.
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