Just a simple question related to this. Assuming I want to remove all the
drywall along a wall - if I wanted to keep the ceiling intact, should I run
a knife along the corner first to break the joint tape?
I guess I'm wondering if pulling down the wall will shred the ceiling
regardless of how careful I am doing it. I guess in some regard I have to
feather the corner when I retape so maybe this is a moot point anyway. or
maybe I can cut the drywall say 6 inches from the corner and not remove the
wall all the way to the ceiling then that makes installing the repair a bit
I'd just cut the corner, trying to save 6 inches will only force you to cut
your new sheets short, and could be a real PIA if you don't cut your 6 inch
line perfectly straight.
once you cut the corner, you should be able to pull the existing drywall
down, to clear the ceiling drywall which would (most likely) gone up after
............ should I run a knife along the corner first to break the
.......I guess I'm wondering if pulling down the wall will shred the
regardless of how careful I am doing it. ......
Maybe....if the drywall went on the wall first its probably nailed to
the top plate.
So it might be a little hard to remove
.......I guess in some regard I have to
feather the corner when I retape so maybe this is a moot point
........or maybe I can cut the drywall say 6 inches from the corner
and not remove the
wall all the way to the ceiling then that makes installing the repair
a bit simpler.
Before you make that cut 7 remove the drywall on the wall, drive some
screws or nails just above the cut to secure the drywall so the piece
that you're leaving behind stays fixed.
I appreciate yours and Dave's response. Both of you suggested that the wall
went up first, ceiling last when everything I've read about drywalling says
put the ceiling on first, walls last. And actually that makes sense too, as
once the ceiling is on you have a good reference point for the wall line.
But perhaps bad construction or fast construction means the wall went on
I hear what you're saying Dave about trying to cut a perfectly straight
line, but I just don't want to have to retape and redo the corners - I hate
You'll just have to dive in & see how it was hung. The guy who hung
your drywall may or may not have read the correct way to do it. :)
USG has a great little handbook all about drywall, I got one years
ago. Its about 4" x 6" & hundreds of pages...lots of info.
Another poster commented on the truss / drywall detail. SInce the
trusses are allowed to move relative to the interior walls, this
movement will tear the corner joint loose. A special drywall / truss
detail is required; as is a special framing detail.
If you have ceiling or floor joist of relatively short span this is
not an issue.
For me cutting the drywall & taping a straight joist would be less of
a problem than dealing with the corner...but my drywall mudding skills
I guess where I'm coming from is....you've got a corner joint that's
working whatever detail exists....I wouldn't mess with it.
Just snap a line, razor knife it, cheese grater it & your're good to
If you go this way don't forget some extra screws above the cut
BEFORE you do the cut.
A nice wide knife can hide a lot. :) Check out how your knife work
feels before you decide on the cut location...ie dry run
I hear you on those corners!
My mudding skills are getting better and better. My basement is one giant
testing ground for drywalling and mudding. The first half looks like a
broken down crack house, the second half looks like a what I would consider
an amateur job. 3rd time's a charm eh?
If this is your top floor and the roof uses trusses, don't be surprised if
the ends of the ceiling sheetrock are not nailed to the truss or are nailed
to a nailing strip attached to the wall. Trusses move up and down with the
weather and if ceiling sheetrock is nailed to the end of the trusses, gaps
show up between the walls and ceiling.
As for your question, I don't have an answer. It might depend on what you
find as you take things apart.
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