I have a Formica counter top with a 4" lip at the back that it 1" thick. That 4" lip is separating from the wall, stretching the caulking to the point were it cracking and "grinning".
I can push the lip back into place, but I don't think that squirting glue back there and clamping it in place for a day is going to hold. I was considering driving some screws through and into the studs, but not sure if that would be a good idea.
Any suggestions on how to fix ?
Thanks
Maybe an "L-shaped" piece of trim over it?
If it is not attached to the wall and movement seems to be a problem, attachment is the too obvious solution. The trick is to attach it without a firm screwable part of the cabinet to screw tight against the wall. You can't just use a few long screws from the back of the cabinet to the wall 4 inches away unless they are right at the part that contacts the wall.
No experience** with this except I think it would break to the sides of the screws.
Yeah something like that. I was thinking wooden quarter round, but maybe make it something unusual and "exciting".
**Well maybe I have experience. I had a gallon of distilled water, I keep for an out-of-town friend. It's all he drinks. It was on the cement floor of the basement for months, without leaking. I put it for one night on my formica counter and it leaked. It's old formica and doesn't curve over the front. Rather there are 2 pieces, so it got into the crack between them and the particle board inside swelled. I wonder if something in your formica is swelling. There was no way I was going to be able to squeeze my particle board back to the original thickness.
Let me be more clear. If there are parts that are still touching the wall, screws would probably keep them from moving. But y ou say you can push the lip back into place and if that's what you want the screw to do, it might crack to the left and r ight of the screws.
Why do you think it's moving? Is the particle board swelling? The cabinet it's on top of moving? The wall moving? Because of past experience, I was assuming the first, I think.
Sure, after he finds out what's causing the movement. Are his floors sagging and pulling the cabinets/countertop away from the wall?
Can you access underneath ? I was thinking about forcing it into position and somehow clamping/holding it there while you drive some long screws up into it from underneath. .. ? .. quick & dirty sort of fix. John T.
There was a water issue under that sink a few years ago, but that's been corrected and everything under there is now dry. Driving some long screws w/finishing washers to hit the studs was what I was thinking about, and if I didn't crank them down super tight then the particle board would not have a reason to buckle on either side or break.
Is there something more cosmetic that I could put over the top that would look better than a finish washer ? If I counter sunk the screws and found something close to the color of the Formica to stick over the top ?
Thanks for the all the feedback Sid.
Sounds like you have your own ideas - party on Bro. John T.
I was going to suggest these,
They come in two colors. So do screws.
To make them fancier, maybe coat them with glue and then add diamond dust.
If the formica is on that petrified termite spit most countertops are made from and it gets wet, it's game over. I ALWAYS coat the cut edges with a good coat of paint to prevent moisture getting in - including the cutouts for the sink If it gets wet it generally STAYS wet, and it soon gets NASTY. Another good practice is to "back cut" the backsplash so there is a good air-space between it and the wall except right where the formica edge contacts the wall. Scribing the backsplash to match the wall helps make a professional looking job too. Takes a lot less caulk to finish that way.
T think "I" would remove the screws from the bottom of the cabinet that holt the countertop down and pull the countertop forward to see what's really going on and at the very least cut back the swelled wood so the counter can fit back where it belongs without excessive pressure being applied. Perhaps not too late to seal the edges with ZINZER of Bulls-Eye shelac sealer/primer while it is apart to prevent further damage. If the top is glued down instead of wcewed, YOU are screwed - - -
Do you mean the 4" tall backsplash ? It was probably glued in place originally , moisture might have caused it to warp ... If you can push it into place with moderate hand pressure the best course is to gently pry it from the wall , clean the old adhesive off the backsplash and wall and reglue it . Wedge it in place with vertical strips up against the upper cabinets , horizontal strips clamped at the front edge of the countertop to hold it to the wall while the glue dries . (I'm a retired cabinet maker , seen and repaired a lot of loose backsplashes)
Snag, you got it exactly right. And yes I believe it was glued in place. I didn't really want to pull it off if I didn't half to.
I wish I had a picture of "... Wedge it in place with vertical strips up against
I'm just trying to image how I can build something to hold it in place ?
I had trouble picturing it also. Maybe snag will go into more detail.
I had trouble picturing it also. Maybe snag will go into more detail.
Cut strips of 1x2 long enough to fit from the top of the splash to the bottom of the upper cabinets . Basically the same thing horizontal , strips against the front of the splash running to the front edge of the top and clamped in place - the top almost always overhangs the front of the cabinets . You can use wooden wedges from the hardware store to tighten things up if needed . They're usually sold as window/door shims . If the splash doesn't want to lay flat on the wall , lift and block the free end of the front to back strip up closer to the middle of the backsplash .
On Sunday, December 17, 2023 at 6:04:39 PM UTC-5, Snag wrote: Sometimes you can reactivate the formica glue with heat. I've succeeded - I think an iron was recommended but I used a heat gun.
But I've failed too and had to reglue.
I think you might have me confused with someone else ... if that is supposed to be a recent comment . I may have said something like that at some time in the past ... but I was probably talking about rebonding a spot on the countertop , not reglueing the backsplash to the wall .
Snag, wouldn't it be simpler to lay a 2x4 down horizontal in front of the back-Splash and then use some vertical strips in front of the 2x4 and then just use a long construction screw to screw it to the wall ? only one little screw hole to fix. I have people using that kitchen and I don't think they will be kind to a bunch of clamps the width of the cabinet taking a lot of counter space. What would be the best glue to use ? Liquid Nails acceptable ? Do I really need to scrape the old glue/stuff off first ?
Thanks
The means of clamping is up to you , as long as it's held in position while the glue dries . Liquid nails will work , as will most any construction adhesive . Scraping is recommended so that the old glue doesn't hold the work from making good contact . A clean surface will take less glue and give you a better bond . Do it right or do it twice ...
Snag, If I pull the splash off and the drywall behind has been wet and crumbling, should I cut it out and replace ? with drywall -or- can I use 1/2" plywood for a better grip ? Thanks
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