I have to lift a door by the handle to get it to latch and want to fix this . My initial idea was to remove the strike plate, chisel out another 1/8" at the bottom edge, fill the existing holes, drill lower holes, then re-att ach the plate. But since the new holes are going to be so close to the fil led holes, I suspect the filler won't hold up.
I wonder if it wouldn't be better to simply grind down the bottom of the st rike plate opening with a Dremel and keep using the original holes.
I guess the first question would be if the door is sagging. Could you put something behind the bottom hinge to raise it a bit?
I've done that. As long as there is enough of the stike plate left it will be OK to grind down.
As Dean suggests door might be sagging but I have also seen door misalignment with house settling a bit.
Are the screws loose in the top hinge? Is the gap the same on the latch side top to bottom? If it looks like the hinge side jamb pulled in, you could try longer screws in the hinge so they engage the framing jacks. Usually they just use 3/4" screws that only go into the door jamb itself. That also makes the door stronger
I had the same problem recently with the door between my shop and the garage. I am the second owner and did not build it, a pole barn.
After I replaced the knob and latch, I discovered that didn't solve the problem. The screws in the 4 hinges had loosened over 30 years and allowed the door to sag. Tightened them all and now latch works properly.
Paul
You guys were exactly right. The top hinge was loose because two of its sc rews were stripped. Just by tightening the center one, it pulled the door close enough to the frame so the latch works properly now. I'll replace th e other two with longer ones for a more permanent fix.
I'm glad I came here for help!
Take a piece of wood, carve it to the size of the existing screw holes, dip the wood in wood glue and stick it in the screw hole. Wait a day for the glue to harden. Now you can drill new holes.
That works too.
But as other posters have pointed out, make sure the existing hinges are tightly screwed down or the door will continue to move.
in which case shimmingthe door frame may be the proper solution. I jacked ans shimmed the frame (jam) of the door on my shed and it solved bith the sticking door and thepoor action of the latch.
Two replies got it right. Don't instantly assume it's the strike. The culprit is the hinge, usually the top one. Tighten the screws on the top hinge. If they are stripped, you have two options. A) get longer screws and screw into the main frame or B) fill the hole with toothpicks and glue then insert the original screw. If all screws are tighten securely and the latch is still lower, then add a shim to the bottom hinge until you see the space between the hinge side door jamb and the door are even and the latch aligns with the strike.
I had to do that on my door.
The hinge screws were loose and the screw-holes messed up. I drilled out the screwhole, glued in a dowel, and then drilled the dowel for the correct size screw. Ten years later there are still no problems.
It's also possible to drill out the hole and fill with an epoxy mix, but in a horizontal hole it's a lot easier to glue in a dowel.
Dan Espen posted for all of us...
I use dowels glued in drilled holes. My father showed me this on a desk he worked on for me. I brings back good memories... I still have the desk and the folding leaf is still secure +60 years.
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