I just moved into my new house and the previous owners were not very
good handymen. I need to paint the bedroom, which will include painting
the trim again. The trim is painted white with what looks like a
standard semi-gloss latex paint. All of the surfaces (both walls and
trim) are in pretty nice, easily makeable ready to paint to a quality
level that fit my standards. There is only one problem. Even though
they painted the trim rather nicely, they also got paint onto the wood
floor that would be removed.
Can anyone post on some courses of action that they've tried that work
(also, methods that DIDN'T work might be handy to know)? Obviously, the
paint will have to be removed from the wood floor (oak), which will be
the primary visible flooring throughout the house.
I guess it's going to be a lot of slow work, but I don't know of any
other way to do it, short of covering up the floors with carpet or
laminate, etc, or putting in a whole new floor, which in my opinion, is
something that I don't want, and probably a bit of an extreme solution.
If it's latex paint (and it probably is -- people who are too lazy to do a
proper job of masking and cleanup are usually also too lazy to use oil-base
paint), you may be able to simply scrape it off of the varnish with a stiff
plastic scraper (try using an old credit card). If that doesn't do the trick,
try softening the paint with Goo-Gone, rubbing alcohol, or mineral spirits
(paint thinner) and try the scraper again. A steel putty knife or paint
scraper may do a better job, but there's also more risk of damage to the
finish on the floor. DO NOT use harsher solvents such as lacquer thinner or
acetone; these *will* damage the finish on the floor.
Thanks for the help. I'd thought of Goo Gone, but wasn't sure that would work, as
I've never tried it. Doug, here's one for you, and it concerns your comment on paint
types below. I'm a careful and pretty much a perfectionist when it comes to painting,
but would have automatically used Semi-gloss latex to repaint the trim. SHOULD I be
using oil base paint for the trim? Is either oil or latex paint standard/mandatory
useage on interior trim painting? I've never had to address this before as where I've
always lived, the wood was stained and finished. I'll be using a standard interior
latex paint for the walls, probably Behr.
Doug Miller wrote:
Lots of people swear by all-latex. I hate it for trim and doors for two
reasons: oil/alkyd gives a nice, hard and more stain resistant
finish, and repainting is much easier over oil. Latex, when you go to
sand and prep to repaint, wants to roll and peel. Can't sand down to
feather an edge where there is a scrape. Good oil/alkyd lasts 20 years
unless the kids drive ATV's through the house or the dog eats woodwork :o)
Thanks for the info. After hearing that, I may just go with oil... It's a very
argument for it. I know what you describe about trying to work over latex paints. I've
experienced those effects, and I find it frustrating.
What would the recommended surface prep be to paint over with oil based paint, when
don't know what the previous paint was? At this point, not having tried to remove
runovers, am not sure if they used oil or latex. I guess it could be either.
Doesn't matter -- IME oil-base paint will stick to almost anything. Don't try
to put latex paint over oil, though, it won't adhere. If you're worried, use a
good oil-based primer first, then ol-based topcoat.
There isn't really anything "mandatory" but I certainly prefer using oil-base
paint on trim: it's much more durable, and resists stains and dirt far better,
than latex paint. This is *particularly* important for households with
children. Note that I did *not* say "small children". As they get older, even
well into the teenage years, the only thing that really changes is the height
of the handmarks on the doorjambs (and the lintels *over* the doors).
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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Trying to select the "correct" color for familyroom walls, after 3
sample Qts of Sherwin Williams wife went to HD and bought Qt of Behr
to try. It would take several coats to cover as well as the one coat
of SW latex. Caveat emptor!
Prior to dipping a brush into any finish precondition the brush be
dipping it up to the ferrule in the proper solvent for that finish.
Remove most of the solvent and dir the brush about half way in the
finish. This stops the finish from drying inside and causing it to
become stiff, and makes the brush easier to clean.
Thanks for the info. I'm open to trying Sherwin Williams, after all,
it's a local company for me (Cleveland). I found that they have 18"
rollers in their stores. I want to try one. 9" rollers just don't cut it
" email@example.com" wrote:
Im sure they used latex, If your floor is varnished then alcohol or
is the quickest way, get a rag damp ,put it over the paint till it
softens, using a scraper will damage the varnish , use a rag. A wet rag
with soapy water will also work, but it will take longer. If your floor
is waxed, forget the liquids they will ruin the wax, then strip it off
Welllllllllll.......how much paint did they get on the oak, and what
kind of baseboard trim do you have? If there is a quarter round, and it
can be taken off, you may cover the booboos with a wider trim strip. If
extremely lucky, they have a hard varnish finish and some wax on the oak
flooring, so some Formula 409 and a plastic scrubber might take off the
latex paint. If the latex paint is just a little wobbly and not very
wide, you could lay masking tape along the floor and paint the trim
color in a narrow band to cover the old booboos; a consistent straight
line would probably disguise minor wandering of the edge.
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