On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 15:18:40 -0500, Ignoramus25344
Many people can fix almost anything in their home, but when it comes
to refrigeration, it's not a DIY repair. You already replaced the
capacitor and relay. About the only other thing a homeowner can fix
is a defective control, bad wiring, or the cooling fan underneath.
After that, it's time for the pros, and they are expensive. You can
likely buy a used fridge much cheaper than the repair. Once a
compressor dies, its just too costly to replace it. A friend just had
a chest freezer die. I went over and tested the relay. It was
sucking way too much amperage, and would cut out in seconds. I told
him the compressor was shot. He called the pros the next day. He
paid them $50 for the same advice I gave him. They said there is a
dead short inside the compressor windings, and the cost to replace the
compressor was around $350 more. He was pissed he had to pay the $50
service call. Well, I told him, and I didn't charge him anything. He
just bought a used freezer for $125, but lost all the food that he
It sounds like you did all you could. Kiss it goodbye and get another
fridge, unless you want to spend as much as a new fridge to replace
Well, not what I really like to hear, but this may be very pertinent.
Last night, after the fridge sat without electricity (and food) for
over 12 hours, it still would not start -- the motor would buzz and
then the overload relay would turn it off. I left it unplugged.
Just to be dead sure, I will try again tonight when I get home from
work -- that would be 36 hours of sitting without power. I do not
expect any different result.
At that point, if the fridge would not start, this is for sure not ANY
kind of cooling issue, so I will just replace it with another fridge.
Ig... it's not unreasonable for a new start cap to fail. Electronic
parts tend to fail in two regimes -- "infant mortality", and "old age".
If they get past four or five months, they usually last for their rated
Also, I think you said you replaced the start relay. If it actually IS a
relay (because they call those abominable PTC things "relays", too), then
it's easy to tell if it's working. If, instead, you open the thing up
and find a coin-sized disk of unobtainium with two leads, it's a PTC
thermistor, and prone to all sorts of ills. Replace it with a real
potential relay, and you'll lick the problem (if it's failed).
Even a loose connection between the "relay" and the hermet connector on
the compressor can cause the symptoms you see.
Perhaps, once he has determined that the solution is beyond his ability, of
course. Don't be bustin his ass because he's making
that effort. Furthermore, we in this group HELP, unlike those responders at
I was of the same mind until I clocked both old and new with a KillaWatt
power meter. The old one (admittedly low on freon so working extra hard)
ran 4X the kWh as the new one. That's hard to ignore. I was of the same
mind as you - IIABDFI! But when the old one couldn't cool well on the
hottest days anymore, I had to make a choice and I chose the simplest model
in the hopes that reliability is truly inversely proportional to complexity.
Fridges are like classic cars. After 30 years, the plastic and rubber parts
are heading off to Jesus, replacements aren't readily available and the
patches accumulate to the point of embarrassment. One thing I like about
the new one is the absence of a dimpled egg shelf. Never used it, the space
was wasted and it collected all sorts of crap that had to be scooped out one
$#$%% egg hole at a time.
The new fridge is much easier to clean overall and has enormous shelves
built into each door. Good some ways, bad others. Grabbing creamer,
condiments and the ice tea pitcher doesn't require a full door opening,
which is a very large energy consumer, especially with teenagers doing a
IG-level food inventory before deciding what to eat.
We did make one super-size mistake in selecting the capacity of the units.
They allege to be the same cubic capacity, but the new one had it laid out
in very much less friendly space. It's our fault (well, mine) because we
(I) didn't think to measure the cubic space of each compartment. The new
box has much less freezer space and turned out to be a biggish sort of
But now that the government says the recession is over we'll be leaving it
behind when we buy our new, fairly priced, equitably taxed house in a stable
neighborhood not riddled with foreclosed and empty houses. Phew!
The fridge compartment is conspicuously empty and the freezer, the reverse.
It's laid out so where once we could have containers and frozen food cartons
2 deep, now it's 1.75 deep which basically means one deep. The walls are
much thicker as well, but that's part of the reason it's using 1/4 the
juice. We had a lot of limitations, though, in terms of getting it IN the
house. We have very small doors that limited the overall size of the
replacement. The two guys who did the install had to put a ratty look sling
under the bottom and literally "dance" it into the house.
Will it last as long as the old box? Probably not. What does? Will I save
enough money to offset the cost of buying a new one? No, but if I had
replaced it when it first started getting quirky, the savings picture would
be different. One thing it inspired me to do was take baseline kWh readings
on the new one. Armed with that information, it might be possible to spot a
problem as insidious as water-logged insulation. I'll at least have some
idea what the current draw was when the machine was well to help gauge the
severity of future problem. I'll bet waterlogged insulation can really jack
up the kWh consumption per day. Where did the water come from?
I had a similar experience - turned out to be the cooling fan motor - not
the relay or the compressor.
Same symptom - compressor would start, run for a few then kick off.
replaced the fan motor and presto.
If yours does not have a cooling fan, try cleaning the dust from the coils.
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