Refinishing Hardwood Floor - the poly

Take heart, oil based is supposed to be more durable. Dilution should be OK within reason. Some brands mention what the limit is on the label. When in doubt, call the manufacturer, or if you are dealing with a real paint store they will have the answer. I have had no problems with diluting PU to get the right viscosity for spraying. Cure is fine, subsequent brush coats OK. Oil based PU is best applied in the summer because some brands have a major odor problem that persists for a day or two. HTH

Joe

I don't know if it aid sealing, but I get a smoother finish after the second or third coat. I thin about 10%.

the label states how much it can be thinned, which is usually there because of the voc laws in place in different parts of the country, rather than what is technically ok for the product.

the label will also have an 800 # to call for further information.

Poly can be tinted. Lookup Trans-Tint dyes used by woodworkers. Do lots of tests on samples first to get the color Mama wants.

Personally, I like oil and wax better because poly looks kind of plastic to me. But my kitchen floor has poly because it is resistant to all but the largest spills and will tolerate those if they are wiped up promptly.

-- Doug

Red Green wrote in news:Xns9A25C06F6E672RedGreen@216.196.97.136:

Thanks for the replies all.

I chose to pop for the can of sealer. Last thing I wanna do is fix another one of my F.U.'s :-) It's an alcohol base I believe. Also, looking at the color after it's sealed, if Bosslady says that's fine then the option of water or oil base poly is still open.

Red...

practice and test colors on some spare leftover pieces, not your floor.