Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other than rip it out?
?!?!?!
You'll always have some joints that aren't depressed. You just mud and tape then as usual. It just means you'll have to mud a lot wider to make the joint less visible.
Yes, there is. It's messy, but effective. Simply use a small angle grinder and cut your own groove. Some screws/nails may have to be set in different locations, obviously. Downside is the dust, so a good shop vac is essential, and curtaining off the area. But you would do some of that anyway for the joint work. It helps a ton to use a Magnasand with the shop vac for dust control, and the screen sander that comes with it makes the job really fly. Put a squirt of Pam non- stick spray in the Magnasand trap to keep the foaming under control. For a small room like yours the joint prep shouldn't take over 45 minutes or so. The final mud and sand will then be pretty quick because you won't have to feather out a foot or so on each side. The alternative is to just slop on the mud, feather out a bunch, sand, mud, sand, etc. Or total rip out, as you noted. Your call, and good luck.
Joe
????? Taper to butt? Butt to butt? Impossible to not have any taper to taper joints unless they were cut off completely. Not likely. You may have a gap between tapers and that is okay if it is not too big. Actually that gives you a stronger joint with a small (1/8") gap between boards.
Butt to butt joints are also fairly easy. Put a small strip of mud on each side of the joint first. After that dries, then do the joint and level it out. SOP.
Mike D.
I agree there is nothing wrong with just taping it and widening the mud a bit. However, I have, on occasion, done the following: Using a utility knive (box cutter type) I cut the surface paper at an angle away from the joint on both piece of drywall. Then, the paper can be pealed off. This give a depression for the new tape and mud. Not as messy as grinding!
Lot of trouble, one hell of a mess. Much simpler to just tape it. Done right, and it should only take a few joints to learn, it won't show anyhow.
Harry K
if your tape is not back over the paper, then you'd might just as well not tape it.
sWhere I have a "cut" edge rather than a tapered side edge with the paper wrapped around, I will take a carton knife and cut a 45 degree angle about
1/8 to 1/4 inch wide. This reduces the burr that often results from the factory cut edge or from cutting and sawing drywall. This makes a smoother job of taping and mudding on non-tapered edges.
Same here.
Harry K
Yep Tear down the house and build a new one !!!!
If you make the cut on the white side instead of the brown side you get much cleaner cuts. The pros don't really care about this. We never had any complaints from any finishers. BTW, why are you suing a saw to cut the ends of the drywall? Score and break works fine. Then use a sureform to clean up the end. Makes for very tight joints IF the ceilings are straight. Then again, a small gap makes for a stronger joint when the mud is pressed into the small gap.
Mike D.
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