For one thing, it isn't A source, but multiple sources. No way would I
be able to remember every little thing.
However, I do remember the latest one. About 2 and a half years ago I
bought some 6P6C modular plugs (called RJ12 IIRC) from Lowe's. The
instructions on the package describe them being used for up to 3
Sorry I couldn't help with that. I never even wanted that information
(I was using the connectors for something else*), let alone felt a
need to keep it around.
I've never seen one for 3 lines, but 2-line adapters seem commonly
available here. I'm looking at one now. It has a 6P4C male with 3
female connectors, wired as follows:
first jack (marked L1):
3 - wired to 3
4 - wired to 4
second jack (marked L2):
3 - wired to 5
4 - wired to 2
third jack (marked L1+L2):
2 - wired to 2
3 - wired to 3
4 - wired to 4
5 - wired to 5
For some reason the second jack has the connections reversed.
That's wrong, considering what I found in Lowe's (see above). IIRC
that's all they sell.
Pure blue? What sort of impure blue did you see?
* - holiday light control, which I've posted about elsewhere and isn't
really on topic here.
On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 18:26:52 -0500, Mark Lloyd
I haven't found anything with those particular instructions (which
were real ones)., but have found 3 items all of which say "for 1, 2,
or 3 lines:"
6-conductor wire (red/green/yellow/black/blue/white): Philips UL/CMX
round wire (there's no part number on this spool, maybe it came off
with the customer annoyance device)
6P6C plugs: Ideal 85-345
6P6C wall plate with F-connector: Philips PH60627
Don't believe anything you read and only half of what you see.
(Will Rogers. <http://www.willrogers.org/ )
I read it on the net so it MUST be true. <sigh>
40-year-old home wired with four conductor "JK" wire. (red/green &
Customer wants a second POTS line in his home office.
The telco installer connects the new line to the yellow/black pair of
the quad wire at the demarc/SNI/D.
At the "far end", if the yellow/black pair is not already connected to
the formerly-one-line block, the installer has two choices, either one
will be dictated by the customer's need.
If the customer has a two-line telephone and wishes both lines to be
delivered from the wall outlet (jack) to the phone on a SINGLE base
cord, it must be a two-line cord - four conductors.
Wired thusly, the jack is configured as an RJ14. It's the SAME jack
(four pins) but the outer, two pins have been activated with Line 2.
If the customer wishes the new line to be a stand-alone line, the
installer will ADD a jack/RJ11. Red/green will feed one and
yellow/black the other.
I did it so often I could do it in my sleep. Some unfriendly coworkers
would argue that I occasionally did. <sigh>
Where do you GET this info? Man...
White/blue is the color of Pair 1 - yes - the FIRST pair, in any cable.
Mere single-family homes since about the late sixties were wired with
such cable. Such cable is readily available at Home Depot and Lowes.
The white/blue pair is connected to the green/red lugs on a common block
(jack/outlet). White/orange (line/pair 2) is connected to the
black/yellow lugs on the same jack.
Aw, we have pure blue here, too. ...in the sky.
The fourth conductor, to make a second PAIR, was added by the Bell
System many, MANY years ago to facilitate either dial light current, a
spare pair in the event of failure of the first, or the need for a
Dial light transformers were introduced in the late 50s or early 60s to
illuminate the lamps inside the (then) new Princess<r> telephone. The
Trimline<r> phone followed shortly with an illuminated dial.
When dial light became "line powered", it was no longer necessary for a
dedicated transformer somewhere in the house - the ORIGINAL wall wart.
There are probably hundreds of thousands of such transformers still in
service today - virtually unused.
Thanks for providing confirmation. I was wondering why there were so
many 2-line adapters and other things for that "nonexistent" wiring
Those can not be lit all the time, but only when the phone is "on
hook" since there is very little power available before activating the
telco's off-hook detection.
I never had one of those phones, but when I moved into my first
apartment (an old one) someone had left one of those wall-warts, still
connected to the yellow/black wires to the phone jack. I still have
the thing. It's beige (dirty white) in color, made by Western
Electric, and has screw terminals marked "SEC: 6-8V 1.75VA".
Wrong. It is quite common. Most recent time I ran across it was in this
very house, where the kid's bedrooms were wired with yellow and black to
the center conductors. Pre-cellphone era, Mama Bell heavily sold getting
a second line for the kids. Was also quite common with roommates sharing
a house (like at college) and wanting private lines to talk to their
sweeties, and to make sure there was no question about who pays LD
charges. (Back in school, I used to do a lot of moonlight phone wiring
for young ladies. Nothing illegal, mind you, just putting outlets where
they wanted them.)
No, I meant <I> wasn't doing anything illegal, like helping the young
ladies steal service.
As to my place- Ma bell 1960's 4-color non-twisted prewire, ma bell
fittings inside, and a ma bell demarc with the yellow and black neatly
plugged into the second rj11 on the customer-accessible side, hooked up
to the second pair on the 1978-vintage drop. Smells like telco to me. A
lot of the houses where I ran across it WERE wired in the pre-modular
era, with the old 4-pin jacks or hardwired plates, the lovely round
ones. Most had been 'upgraded' to modular at some point. (But the phones
still had build dates from the 50s and 60s on them, in many cases. I
miss real phones....)
In 1960's era houses they often used three conductor cable, and the
yellow wire was for lighted phone dials, via a transformer. Then they
went to four wire cable, with the red and green for the primary line,
and black and yellow for the secondary line. Often they'd install
multiple RJ11 jacks with only the inner pair used for each line, but
often they'd hook the black and yellow to the outer contacts, and the
red and green to the inner contacts.
You can often find two line phones that connect with a single cable,
pinned out that way.
Assuming it's a normal analog phone system that's no problem.
You only need the red and green wires: The other two aren't used.
When the phone isn't being used, there is arounc 48V DC between the
wires *red negative w/r to the green).
When the phone is picked up, that voltage drops to around 9 to 15 volts,
depending on a few things.
Ringing voltage is nominally 90 Vac riding on top of 48V DC so it's
capable of giving a person a really good kick if you'r handling the
wires when the phone rings! So, disconnect the wires from the point
where they enter the house; there should be a box there where they can
If not, then leave a phone off hook while you do the work. That will
set off an alarm in the central office and the phone will loudly
complain for awhile, but it stops after about 30 seconds and then the
central office just removes power from your phone lines.
In this case, it might take up to a few minutes of the phone being
back on hook before the central office system gives you back your
voltage and dialtone. Normally it's a pretty quick change but some
older offices can take quite awhile to return your service.
Test the phone after installing hte box. Try dialing a number from
another phone too. If the new phone "tinkles" when the other phone
dials out, then just reverse the red and green wires and it'll stop the
tinkling. It's not unusual for the red & green wires to be reversed in
old installations like you have.
If you have one line, then the voice comes in through green and red, tip and
ring respectively. The yellow and black are for other things - a second line
(if you have one) or for the dial light on fones like the Princess which is
powered by a transformer plugged into an outlet near the fone. Modern fones
don't need the yellow wire for the dial light, these take the power from the
green and red wires. You'll want to have another extention off the hook when
you work on wiring, because the ringing voltage is 90VAC at 20Hz. In other
words, when somebody tries to call you you'll get a painful shock.
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