Hi, helping a friend here. She's looking for simple plans for a radiator cover. I see nothing like what I have seen in other's houses when it's a kitchen.
Design looked for I can possibly spec out myself. Basically a 5ft or so section of wall in a kitchen that can't be used due to radiator and a shortage of kitchen counterspace.
I am thinking heavy legs on all 4 corners and a middle set of legs. On top, butcher block and make it about 20 inches so there's countertop usable space. Now on sides and front, attach a pretty metal grill (lace patterened). There's sufficient clearance above and on all sides to still be fire safe.
Agreed fully. I can flesh out the plan a bit more. Pretty sure no room for a back (against wall) stantion piece. Was planning a 3 sided sort you can just pull away from the wall.
In this one, she also has side shelves (at least one one side) to use for rising bread in the leached warmth in winter.
The design of the radiator cover can have a huge impact on the effectiveness of the radiator. I ran across a site that had showed the different cross sections of radiator covers and their relative efficiency. I'll see if I can find it...hang on.
Damn, sorry it took so long. Here it is:
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From that illustration you can see that the enclosure can have a tremendous effect on the heating capacity of a radiator - something like a 40% swing in effective capacity. When the old timers sized a system's radiators, they could fine tune comfort levels in particular rooms by painting the radiators a different color (metallic paints put out the least amount of heat, white, black and terra cotta put out the most), or building a radiator enclosure with a particular design which would increase or decrease the heating capacity of that radiator.
R
"cshenk" wrote in news:XjsHl.55523$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe20.iad:
In our former home, I built bookcases under the windows with a "hole" where the radiators were. I put an aluminum foil-like thingy behind the radiator to insulate the wall a bit more and reflect the heat (forget the official name). Highly recommended. In addition, in front of the radiator itself, I left about 3 inches at the bottom and the top open, the remainder was a piece of radiator front metal patterned mesh bought in the local hardware store or predecessor of HD. This setup had the advantage of acting as a conduit to blow the heated air into the room, totally by passive convection, no fans, but strong nevertheles. We had steam heat. Whole setup worked beautifully!
The design of the radiator cover can have a huge impact on the effectiveness of the radiator. I ran across a site that had showed the different cross sections of radiator covers and their relative efficiency. I'll see if I can find it...hang on.
Damn, sorry it took so long. Here it is:
formatting link
From that illustration you can see that the enclosure can have a tremendous effect on the heating capacity of a radiator - something like a 40% swing in effective capacity. When the old timers sized a system's radiators, they could fine tune comfort levels in particular rooms by painting the radiators a different color (metallic paints put out the least amount of heat, white, black and terra cotta put out the most), or building a radiator enclosure with a particular design which would increase or decrease the heating capacity of that radiator.
That was fast for me.
Does the same apply to baseboard radiant heating? I would assume it does since the concept is still the same. Therefore, I made my own covers out of finish grade pine (no knots) and stained and polyed them to match my oak floors. I tried two different designs on separate rooms. One, I routed grooves to emulate the grill appearance on top of the main board while leaving an inch along the bottom. The other, I left the top intact, such as a shelf, also leaving an inch on the bottom and another inch along the top of the face.
I heard of the aluminum foil concept behind it for better results after I've completed them which I will install this summer.
Hello, my name is Granby and what I want is to build a table over the hot water radiator that runs across the floor. All the things that were described to you were so that it could be a counter top cork space and such.
I hope my friend will continue to answer any questions you may have. Am blind and usually top post but understand it isn't permitted here. Had help getting to the right spot this time. Thank you for any help you can be.
I have and I've gathered some info together from various posts. The one on the paint color and how a cover can reduce the effective heat isnt relevant to your specific design but was very good information. RJ came from the angle of the full cover which can and does limit the heat output. He didnt know enough on the need because I didnt add enough for him to tell us what was needed.
The main tip so far useful to you is to make it a 3 sided design so you can actually pull it away from the wall at need to do either maintenance on the radiator or some other need. I agree and my idea allowed for that.
This would mean a foot at each corner and one in the center front (or 2, you didnt tell me exactly how wide the radiator is). You will want about 1 inch thick butcher block wood for the top so will need sturdy 'legs' to support it so it doesnt sag. I am thinking 2x4 which you can sand down and make look nice for that. A pretty metal grill at front and sides is a nice touch, but not essential.
Would there be a stud behind the unit in the wall you can then attach an L shaped holder to? Think of it as just 'hanging there' and holding up the back of the butcher block about midway or could be more than one spot you want to add them to. It's too keep the top from sagging over time.
For the rest, please understand that while screen readers for the blind have some odd quirks in posting, she's not needing more than basics of design. We just got a bit too 'off topic' for the breadmakers forum when we talked about how her kitchen didnt have enough counterspace due to location of radiator taking up a large amount of wall space. She's experienced with tools and has done projects before.
So for the rest of you, a pretty much freestanding table with possible support at the back that just rests on an L joint. I am relatively sure she needs about 12 inches freespace above the radiator top before the bottom of the 'countertop'. Less will cause warpage of the top when winter heat kicks in? She by design will have more at the front and sides so wont be an issue.
Hi Han! My email isnt grunged. Could i ask you to email me if that doesnt bother you? I just want to discuss this project in depth and be able to CC Granby without her having to worry about screen reader for the blind top posting getting all the yahoos up in arms (grin).
She may want something like that, if a top could also be run along it to make 'counterspace'.
"cshenk" wrote in news:YfOHl.48315$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe21.iad:
See separate email. I would really have to look for old photos of the radiator cover and bookcase if I can find anything. Or you'd have to wait. I am supposed to make one for my daughter, but there is a waiting list of "round tuits" .
RicodJour had a good reference for dimensions of the openings near the top and at the bottom. I would use those, and then let your "feel" guide you to what is practical and esthetically pleasing.
I used (if I remember correctly) pine boards. For the vertical parts, I cut openings at the back-bottom for the baseboard. Sorry I don't have better info.
Got it all and thank you! She and you both have email now but it's late and I need to get a bath and go to bed. I'll be back on it tomorrow ok? Carol
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